tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7115787249931772582024-03-12T19:14:40.438-04:00Robin's Bouldering PageRobin's Bouldering Page-
Bouldering, climbing, and otherwise enjoying the outdoors in Central Maryland and beyondRobinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.comBlogger239125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-44385212166910205012021-03-31T07:22:00.001-04:002021-03-31T07:22:50.508-04:00Roadside fun<p>Spring is here! In some ways, not a lot has changed for me these past few months. We're still mostly staying at home, and I still haven't been to the gym in over a year. Part of that caution, though, was in preparation for one thing that actually did change, since little girl number two joined us in mid-February. It's been a busy month of figuring out new patterns, and while my climbing hasn't been as adventurous, it's been just as fun. Rather than long walks through the woods (okay, I still sneak in a couple of those), climbing days have more frequently meant taking the girls to a relatively roadside boulder, letting everyone play around for a couple hours, and then having a picnic afterward. Not a bad place to be. </p><p>For a couple weeks we were going to a spot downhill from Bushwhack, within sight of the road. I don't know what any of it is, but there were some fun short slabs and one boulder with a short overhang on the downhill side. While I was initially drawn to the mantle up the center, my favorite line was bumping out to the right arete and then compressing until I could get my feet over the lip to walk up the slab.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrT-FKJ68coPO3pZtja-CpjB9V77frUM4nV_oa4Q1uV2_Km70gdcUWD5w-Q6j9n3Tz1lrwuEGSAIVSOkmtkWEcI3gjGgJbsRwn_FXUIFswfB_lo_GgPg4k_2njLuDZ_lssOzl43SiWIO_/s1225/fullsizeoutput_44be.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1225" data-original-width="1125" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNrT-FKJ68coPO3pZtja-CpjB9V77frUM4nV_oa4Q1uV2_Km70gdcUWD5w-Q6j9n3Tz1lrwuEGSAIVSOkmtkWEcI3gjGgJbsRwn_FXUIFswfB_lo_GgPg4k_2njLuDZ_lssOzl43SiWIO_/s320/fullsizeoutput_44be.jpeg" /></a></div><p>This week we've been visiting the Westview parking boulders at Sugarloaf, which I hadn't climbed for years. The slab there is as much fun to play on as I remembered, though I'd forgotten just how much I enjoyed the <i>Secondhand Smoke</i> arete. If I had to name the best V2 I'd climbed, this thing would easily be in the top few.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOY5lJhtpzZ7W1QUX-9zonA1cZHLmlhTQMzbYAR38ruSz6z6EO7K0UvAM3f5NFSABPAQKuDibJDbF7LWKlrzL935A4LlxOBhEDLdEU9Y3VsbuoOIpiT3G6-pVkVsmZZdtdQyIWOv4frrp/s1426/fullsizeoutput_44b6.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1426" data-original-width="1125" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicOY5lJhtpzZ7W1QUX-9zonA1cZHLmlhTQMzbYAR38ruSz6z6EO7K0UvAM3f5NFSABPAQKuDibJDbF7LWKlrzL935A4LlxOBhEDLdEU9Y3VsbuoOIpiT3G6-pVkVsmZZdtdQyIWOv4frrp/w315-h400/fullsizeoutput_44b6.jpeg" width="315" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Yesterday I got on something that I don't remember doing before, starting to the left as for <i>Third Degree Burn</i>, but finishing more or less straight up instead of traversing right to the arete. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVyoxb8AEwy1luw4lB_-uSGyba7xhSc9dBWG6lF8x9Bvqk2dlak7cu0YAixx5_iLgld_54PwehVDIRFHWn114DAO5V4Tt9FPNSXMqJgmo143zP4IiLaYinSeFrSu2koEWGRO9LCOhfiRW/s1985/fullsizeoutput_44b5.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1985" data-original-width="1106" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVyoxb8AEwy1luw4lB_-uSGyba7xhSc9dBWG6lF8x9Bvqk2dlak7cu0YAixx5_iLgld_54PwehVDIRFHWn114DAO5V4Tt9FPNSXMqJgmo143zP4IiLaYinSeFrSu2koEWGRO9LCOhfiRW/w223-h400/fullsizeoutput_44b5.jpeg" width="223" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>As my paternity leave is wrapping up, our weekday climbing/picnic sessions will be on hold until summer, but I'm hoping to get in some good afternoons at Northwest Branch. Back in January I went down there and checked out the little boulder by the river behind Hobo Cave, and I can't believe it doesn't get way more traffic. The right arete was fun, and the left slab exit was okay, but going from the low crimp rail straight out to the point was one of the better lines I've climbed at NWB, with solid holds and really fun movement all the way.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZInfLTWuvZ_Bl0sC_6WwpHhgDrLojjzP-IN-VEdtfbmlO4VwXNZf6upA42-kxY-d9wsXk8gWOBWnjBGbW-Rv0gPJHdbjL4viyYh4aOwnSRaE-SNc4C_3urOcimsROmjGDf_QkC7UfLKxH/s1826/fullsizeoutput_44bc.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1826" data-original-width="1125" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZInfLTWuvZ_Bl0sC_6WwpHhgDrLojjzP-IN-VEdtfbmlO4VwXNZf6upA42-kxY-d9wsXk8gWOBWnjBGbW-Rv0gPJHdbjL4viyYh4aOwnSRaE-SNc4C_3urOcimsROmjGDf_QkC7UfLKxH/w246-h400/fullsizeoutput_44bc.jpeg" width="246" /></a></div><p>Speaking of Northwest Branch, Dana and I put together a guide for Gunks Apps, which we plan to keep updating. While a lot of it is information that you can find elsewhere, we're hoping some people will find it useful. If you check it out and notice any mistakes (there have been several), let us know and we'll fix them in future updates.</p><p>Until next time! </p>Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-15830840676914558242020-12-31T15:18:00.000-05:002020-12-31T15:18:10.817-05:00Out with the old, and... in with the old?<p>New Years Eve! I'm sure everything will be magically different once it's officially 2021, right? As optimistic as I'd like to be, I'm bracing myself for more of the same, and at least from a climbing standpoint I guess that's not entirely a bad thing.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzEJWqnXVqvgfWJKyYPnZ9sat3TArRJjTcrTb5vCD_0PJpbxmv8Y_DVnpVUtiy03NB_w62KzqzgLDv6Nmk9uMrxy2hMUmf0wVbHstHhwVdydpFVBSLFft0WAy1ptTyh-GfhFyHKnMebvzp/s1990/fullsizeoutput_41cb.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1990" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzEJWqnXVqvgfWJKyYPnZ9sat3TArRJjTcrTb5vCD_0PJpbxmv8Y_DVnpVUtiy03NB_w62KzqzgLDv6Nmk9uMrxy2hMUmf0wVbHstHhwVdydpFVBSLFft0WAy1ptTyh-GfhFyHKnMebvzp/w400-h217/fullsizeoutput_41cb.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I still haven't ventured into the gym since sometime in early March, and probably won't for a while still. I'm still climbing more on my deck than anywhere else, but for the past couple months I've gotten back to getting out bouldering at least once a week most of the time. Mostly local, and to places where I'm not likely to be around other people if I can help it, but at least it's consistent. While I haven't really climbed much that I haven't already climbed before, it's been fun having the chance to revisit some old favorites. It's also been interesting to get out when my strength is shifted more to overhung compression than the thin slab I spent so long gravitating toward.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigm8OVfcXjVWxvSl8vBo9D_DzF8uL7tJxN2N0GupTdgmabz5eOKb0VjBhNPE1chQao7Y6R1TcGXl2OSft_6-Fqx3CNwYotZ4v-9opy6BtIuJXyL3M0B5rrHZnMbDjn1ic_mOvQqDakCPlC/s1124/E6373C77-7D92-4B21-B1AF-C90BD313CEA9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1124" data-original-width="1124" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigm8OVfcXjVWxvSl8vBo9D_DzF8uL7tJxN2N0GupTdgmabz5eOKb0VjBhNPE1chQao7Y6R1TcGXl2OSft_6-Fqx3CNwYotZ4v-9opy6BtIuJXyL3M0B5rrHZnMbDjn1ic_mOvQqDakCPlC/s320/E6373C77-7D92-4B21-B1AF-C90BD313CEA9.jpg" /></a></div><p>Who knows where my climbing will be in a few weeks, a few months, or a year from now? Honestly I'm not all that worried about it. With so much changing so fast, I find myself in a position where I don't take it as much for granted as I now realize I did, and aside from the fact that I really miss climbing with my friends as much as I used to, I think I'm enjoying being out on the rocks more than I have in a long time.</p><p>Wishing everyone a safe and healthy new year!</p>Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-34833565029202615772020-05-25T14:35:00.002-04:002020-05-25T14:35:38.257-04:00As local as it getsNormally this is about the time of year when I'd be crossing my fingers for a few more random cold climbing days, and heading out to those few places that aren't yet completely engulfed in poison ivy and deer ticks. If I had somehow made it through the winter and prime bouldering conditions uninjured, I would probably be struggling to adjust back to the time of year when getting out climbing is more about just being outside than about actually expecting myself to climb well. Sometimes that actually works in my favor. Sometimes I go out on a summer day with absolutely no expectations other than just to climb on something other than plastic or wooden holds, and I surprise myself with how well I can still climb in swampy conditions. Days like that are made even better with the realization that conditions are only going to get better once things cool down again.<br />
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These days, all of my climbing is outside, and I've actually been getting out to climb three days a week. Sort of.<br />
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After ten weeks of rarely leaving my house, of not going more than five miles from home, and not moving my car more than four or five times, I feel like I should be itching to get back out on the rocks. Oh I miss it for sure, but with no idea how things are going to continue to play out, I also feel like it's not hurting me to wait a while longer.<br />
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And maybe this is just wishful thinking, but in the meantime, I feel like I'm getting stronger. I feel like I'm becoming a better climber. Yeah, that sounds a bit strange from someone who only ever climbs the side of his deck anymore. The stronger part isn't really a surprise though, since I have glassy plastic for hands and bicycles or heel hooks for feet. But better? Well, as time went passed and I found new ways of climbing the same surface to keep it interesting, I initially focused on harder and harder movements. Most of the time those movements gradually felt easier as I got stronger, but every once in a while something would happen to make a strenuous movement suddenly feel almost effortless. And somehow the longer I do this, the more frequently those "aha" moments arrive. Maybe that's just because I've adjusted to the larger mechanics and can now focus on the details, but I also feel like in giving myself something to climb that absolutely doesn't matter, where there isn't even any concrete "success" that I can work toward, I more fully free myself up to learn and enjoy the process.<br />
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So yes, I miss climbing rocks. And yes, I have boulders that I think about frequently, looking forward to the day when I can see whether I've gained as much strength and knowledge as I feel like I have. But I'm in no rush. For now, I can walk five feet out the door and have a place to climb that challenges me, and have it all to myself under the shade of 80 foot trees. Not a bad place to be.Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-86105141419001657042020-03-20T15:43:00.002-04:002020-03-20T15:43:32.033-04:00Northwest Branch access alertWhat an interesting week it's been. Last Thursday I was climbing at Northwest Branch when I found out that my school system would be closing for two weeks, though at the time I couldn't even imagine how quickly the situation would continue to change, and probably will for the foreseeable future. At first I thought I would be spending more time at Northwest Branch to avoid the gyms. Then the gyms closed, and with Northwest Branch experiencing near record crowds of climbers as a result, I've been avoiding going there as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLe0CWXcMDk1xQ4RxBuR3Uoe5BmEqrfUpPvAQOcQ1fCZrqodXLMQ_tvBCRdGSAxlzon5HQ-wxkaCEEziGZNA8O32aUegGk4QRRQkRZwI38TBT87kLJLiSfefhi5uOp8SrOwWq8Kkdx1lM/s1600/tick+boulder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="400" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqLe0CWXcMDk1xQ4RxBuR3Uoe5BmEqrfUpPvAQOcQ1fCZrqodXLMQ_tvBCRdGSAxlzon5HQ-wxkaCEEziGZNA8O32aUegGk4QRRQkRZwI38TBT87kLJLiSfefhi5uOp8SrOwWq8Kkdx1lM/s400/tick+boulder.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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In an update to their <a href="https://www.montgomeryparks.org/covid-19/">statement on COVID-19</a>, Montgomery Parks has asked users to avoid touching any surfaces that are likely to be touched by other people. As much as we may wish this to mean otherwise, we shouldn't be bouldering at Northwest Branch anytime soon. The boulders will still be there later, so for now let's do our part in limiting the spread of the disease, as well as showing the park service that climbers continue to be a user group that is interested in working alongside them.<br />
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That being said, I'm hoping to use some of this time to finally put out an updated mini-guide to the boulders at NWB, since I lost the file I had been working from and had to start a new guide from scratch. If anyone has "clean" photos of any boulders there (no climbers, crash pads, bags, etc.) and wanted to send some my way, I'd be grateful for any help speeding the process along.<br />
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Stay healthy and safe out there!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-41292137509432577572020-03-07T13:26:00.000-05:002020-03-07T13:26:01.930-05:00Fun SizeIt's been a good winter. On top of whatever climbing I can manage on weekends, I've been consistently getting hour and a half long sessions on Tuesdays and Thursdays before I pick up the girl from daycare. Still not a ton, but way more than I was getting in last year at this time. Mostly it's been Tension Board sessions, with quick trips to Northwest Branch when things are dry enough.<br />
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As the weather got cold, I had intended to make Ultimate Doom at Northwest Branch my winter project. It wasn't something I wanted to spend long days working on, but figured if I spent some time working it on each of my short weekday sessions, eventually I'd piece it all together. After my third session, I got a message about a variation on the Anklebiter boulder that looked interesting, and figured it would be a nice diversion for a couple days. Seven sessions and almost two months later, I finally managed to finish it, in the end using a totally different sequence than when I first started working it.<br />
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<i>Fun Size</i>, a slightly less awkward name than <i>Anklebiter Far Left High Start No Pedestal</i> or something like that, is a variation of Anklebiter Far Left. It starts on the good sloping rail a move into the regular problem, and follows the same path left around the corner, but without using the big pedestal below for feet. While it's technically still an eliminate, it definitely doesn't feel like one. In fact, the movement is intricate, sustained, and enough fun that I'll gladly keep getting on it for a long time to come.<br />
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While the sequence I used in the above video is almost the easiest way I found of getting through the climb, it's also possible when going around the corner to rock up on a heel and reach high for a right jug next to the tree rather than using the small crimp below. This makes the move to the last left crimp a lot easier, though it does force an almost full-circle right hand movement to get around the tree and onto the horn on the arete. For grading purposes, I'd probably base any number I gave on the easier moves using the jug, but personally I find the moves through the crimp to be much more satisfying.<br />
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I've started working on an update to my old NWB mini-guide, so if you get on this one and have any grading thoughts, let me know what you think.Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-66547434291421729782019-11-17T14:37:00.001-05:002019-11-17T14:37:35.775-05:00Back at it againI'm actually starting to feel like a climber again. After I last posted on here, I went through almost three months of not climbing outside. Mostly I just didn't have the opportunity, but when I did I usually got unexpectedly rained out, or in one case arrived to find the trail to the boulders closed. At least I got on a couple fun trailside boulders while hiking in Colorado.<br />
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At the beginning of October my luck started to change, and I went from barely getting out to frequently climbing outside more than I did at the gym. Most of this has been at Northwest Branch, since I can easily get there for a good hour and a half before I pick my daughter up from daycare. I was especially excited to find the Foam Pit area accessible due to low water, and took the chance to get back on the ultra-slick Joes to Pros slab that Taimur and I climbed a few years ago.<br />
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Just for comparison, here's how the same spot looked a couple weeks ago. Glad I got it while I could!</div>
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On a couple of my after-work sessions, I got in laps on Crimptastic and The Business. With my fingers feeling weaker than they have in a long time after half a year away from hangboarding, I thought Crimptastic would give me more trouble. As it turned out, all of the core strength I've picked up actually offset my decreased finger strength, and the moves felt better than ever. Even the move to the lip, historically the crux for me, is no longer a low percentage move.<br />
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Today I woke up planning to go to Rocks and work on Moby, then got a later start than intended and headed toward Northwest Branch to go down to the Long Wall area. Originally thinking I was going to work on Curtain Call, the massive log section sitting near the starting feet made me reconsider.<br />
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I ended up walking up to the Easter Egg boulder to warm up on Speed of Life, which I've always enjoyed for the delicate movement required. The thing is, I've never quite been happy using the standard start, with the heel hook already in place. To get my heel up there, I need to have a left hand up on a high hold for balance, then I basically feel like I'm climbing down into the start holds. The rest of it is still balancey and fun, but it always seemed way easier then the V7/8 grade usually given.<br />
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Today I decided to try it without the heel in place, from a true sit start, something I'd never had any luck with in the past. I tried toeing into a little chip about a foot down from the heel hook, intending to rock up on it hard enough to set a right toe hook that would let me get the left heel in place. As soon as I rocked up, I realized that enough weight was off my left hand that I could just try going for the slopers. After about an hour and several close attempts, I decided to try a foot about four inches higher than what I had been using, sticking the sloper right away, and easily finishing from there. While I intended to switch into the heel hook before matching the slopers, the toe actually felt good enough that I never used the heel at all.<br />
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Climbing it this way felt harder than the heel-hook version for sure, but I still don't know that I'd call it an 8. Maybe hard 6 or easy 7? Normally I wouldn't even bother with numbers, but I've decided it's time to finally finish the Northwest Branch guide that I posted an incomplete version of several years ago, and am trying to get some of the grades firmed up. More on that later though.<br />
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Hope everyone else is getting out there while the weather is good!<br />
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<br />Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-46592373729763269012019-06-22T16:40:00.000-04:002019-06-22T16:40:23.846-04:00Summer daysSummer break. I only feel about five years older than when I started teaching, but somehow nineteen have gone by. Time is funny like that though. People tell you that everything goes too fast when you're watching your kids grow up, but things that my daughter started doing three weeks ago feel like they've been that way forever, and yet I left home yesterday for the last day of school feeling like the previous school year had just ended. <div>
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Maybe that's just a matter of familiarity though. Maybe in designating a period of time as "the last day of school," or "Thanksgiving," or "Sunday," the brain seeks to link it to previous last days and Thanksgivings and Sundays, and that's where the feeling of "didn't I just do this" comes from. Maybe the reason that time stretches out so much with my daughter is that she's always doing something new, and I'm focusing on the endless novelty, rather than an endless repetition.</div>
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I did actually come one here to talk about climbing, but while we're on the subject of kids, people also tell you that having them is an adjustment. It seems more accurate to say that having kids is a constant adjustment. I'm back to climbing twice a week now, and am still fitting in good workouts at home, but something changes every few weeks and I have to figure out how to do it all over again. Currently that means I do my core/stability workouts with my daughter in her Pack'n Play for as long as that lasts, and my pull-up workouts with her in my backpack, doing laps on the stairs between sets. And now that I've typed that, I can almost guarantee I'll have to find a different way to do things next week, especially since she started walking yesterday.</div>
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Through the winter I was probably getting out on rock twice a month or so, and even though I didn't finish any of my projects, I definitely felt strong. Moby might have happened if I'd gotten to it frequently enough that I didn't have to remember the moves every time, but I had a lot of fun working on it, and honestly it felt good just to let myself go out and push hard again.</div>
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On top of getting in some local bouldering whenever I could, I also made it to Sugarloaf in the spring for my first trad routes in almost two years. I forgot how much I missed that!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo: Jeffrey Lash</i></td></tr>
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Since spring break, I've still been getting to the gym regularly, but hadn't gotten a chance to climb outside aside from one route at Carderock while giving a clinic. When I got out of work yesterday, it was right during my daughter's nap time, and I found myself with an hour and a half to kill before picking her up from daycare. I felt the air outside my school, thought how good it would have felt as a climbing day if we hadn't been in school, and immediately went down to Northwest Branch to get in a quick session. Even though I probably only climbed for 45 minutes, it was an unexpectedly perfect start to the summer. Hoping there's plenty more where that came from!</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-26425339320921671962019-03-10T10:55:00.000-04:002019-03-17T13:12:43.919-04:00Review: Evolv RebelAfter two weeks of wearing Evolv's new <a href="https://evolvsports.com/rebel-army-green/">Rebels</a>, the latest addition to their "performance lifestyle" lineup, I think I'm in love. For me, they're a solid step up from the Zenders and the Cruzers, which says a lot considering the Zenders have been my everyday shoe this past year both at work and around town, and the Cruzers have been my shoe of choice for gym workouts. Like their predecessors, the Rebels find that sweet spot of comfort, functionality, and style, while also addressing the few issues I've had with this style of shoe in the past.<br />
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For me, the thicker sole compared to previous models is a game changer. I know a lot of people wear thin-soled approach shoes, and maybe this is just me being an old man, but my feet can't do it. Ever since pulling a tendon in my foot five years ago, which kept me from climbing for a month and derailed any chance of cardio for far longer, I've been way more protective of my feet. Like I said, I loved the Zenders and Cruzers, but I also needed an $80 pair of insoles that I switched into whichever pair of shoes I was wearing at the time. The added support of the Rebels has meant those pricey insoles are now unnecessary for me, and they've taken me through two weeks of long days on my feet with absolutely no discomfort.<br />
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Even better, I'm way more inclined to actually use these as approach shoes. Just to clarify, most of my climbing is in Maryland and Pennsylvania, and our approaches aren't over nice desert sand or soft beds of pine needles. We walk through dense woods, usually without trails, frequently over minefields of talus or fallen trees. Okay, a few of our areas do have trails, though many of those turn straight to mud once it's above freezing. And since my best bouldering happens when it's below freezing, I spend a lot of time running, jumping, and otherwise flailing about to keep my core temperature up so I can feel my fingers well enough to climb, again something that becomes difficult in thin shoes. Add in the Rebels' water repellant upper, and finally I feel like I have shoes that can truly take me anywhere I want them to.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Photo: Mark Profeta</i></td></tr>
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With dry weather in short supply recently, I tried climbing in the Rebels at the gym before I managed to get them outside. I was amazed at how well they performed, and I think what impressed me most was how good they felt on one of the volume climbs. I had already done in my favorite smearing shoes (oversized X1s), and when I went back to try it in my Rebels, I was shocked to find that they felt every bit as secure. I also took them over to the system board (set at vertical) and they were able to handle even the worst of the footholds. On top of smearing well, the sole of the Rebels comes straight down instead of at an angle, preventing the rubber from rolling away on small edges.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Photo: Mark Profeta</i></td></tr>
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I've only gotten them out on rock once so far, on a small riverside boulder near home. While I won't say they felt as precise as the Kronos I eventually put on, the Rebels made easy work of an old circuit that I hadn't climbed in years. The boulder I was on didn't have many edges, but as with the volumes at the gym, I felt like I could smear on anything. Even the shallow dish/pockets felt totally solid. So yeah, if I ended up climbing somewhere and didn't have my actual climbing shoes with me (as if there aren't at least five pairs in my car), I could still have a totally enjoyable day just wearing these.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Pennie Close</i></td></tr>
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I feel like even if Evolv did nothing else new this year, the Rebel alone already has their 2019 going strong. But that's entirely hypothetical, since they've already updated the Kronos and Kira, and their highly anticipated Phantom is still to come. Yeah, it's gonna be a good year.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Pennie Close</i></td></tr>
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<i>*Note: Originally posted 3/10/19, and updated 3/17/19.</i><br />
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<br />Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-46866847298508404612018-12-09T09:42:00.001-05:002018-12-09T09:49:02.755-05:00Seven months later...Seven months into fatherhood, just past my 40th birthday, and still loving life every bit as much as last time I posted here. Honestly I meant to get back on here sooner, but was just waiting for something big to write about, when mostly life has just been made up of a million little things. With both Emily and me home for the summer, we tried to get out and around as much as possible as we adjusted to moving as a family, but we also spent a ton of time just reading and relaxing on the deck. Little girl loves looking at trees!<br />
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We did do a little bit of traveling too. On top of a couple drives to Ohio, we booked a semi-last minute flight out to Colorado in August to catch up with friends and family. The flight went way better than we had anticipated, and the unexpected opportunity to spend time in the mountains was incredibly energizing for me.<br />
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Since then we've pretty much been local, just enjoying the fun of the Fall season, and getting to watch the baby take everything in for the first time. Now that she's started daycare and Em is back to work, it feels like we're starting to figure out what normal is again. Not that normal ever stays the same from one day to the next.<br />
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My climbing has started to pick up a little more now that our new routines are settling in, but mostly I'm still climbing just once a week to keep my movement from getting too rusty, relying on a good workout cycle at home to keep me strong. In what little time I've gotten on rock though, I feel even stronger than I did in the Spring despite the less optimal weather. At the end of September when temps actually dipped down into the 60s, I made a quick trip up to Gretna to see if I could finally finish <i>Equilateral</i>. After warming up on the upper half, it took me a few tries to dial in the first couple moves, but overall the climb felt fantastic. It was cool to see that the incut edges of the Tension Flash board I've been using had toughened my skin enough to keep me from slicing my tips open on the first crimp, and all of my home workouts have made me way better at holding body tension.<br />
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The morning of my 40th birthday, I got up to Rocks State Park to finally take a shot at <i>Moby Dick</i>. That one's been near the top of my list for a long time, but by the time I started to feel strong enough to work it, my years of lower back issues made me think that it was never going to happen. Even though I didn't stick "the move" that day, it felt damn good just to be out there trying it, especially as I started a new decade. Yesterday I went back again and made a little progress. After all last year of just trying to tick off as many climbs as I could from my list, I have to admit it feels good to be projecting something again. I'd forgotten how much I enjoyed the process of figuring out all of the subtleties that make each move go from feeling impossible to effortless. It might be a while before this one feels effortless though!<br />
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In other news, I've taken on the chair position of the Baltimore chapter of the American Alpine Club. I'm still feeling my way around a bit, but I have a couple events in mind, and have been slowly getting things off the ground. If you're an AAC member in Maryland and have any interest in getting more active, whether helping with tabling, event planning, social media, or anything else that fits your strengths, let me know and I'd love to have you aboard.<br />
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Okay, considering the fact that I first started writing this three months ago, I'm going to go ahead and post it before anything else distracts me. Til next time!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-49634441596467248082018-04-29T18:17:00.000-04:002018-04-30T11:32:17.092-04:00Finishing businessThe past few weeks have marked a big shift in my climbing focus, and in life in general. Whereas all winter long I had focused on training at the gym during the week to take maximum advantage of winter bouldering conditions on weekends, the knowledge that I had only a few more weeks before fatherhood made getting outside at every opportunity that much more of a priority. Gym days became outside days whenever weather allowed, whether to go out and cross things off my ticklist that I hadn't made it to all winter, or just getting out and enjoying time on old favorites. As Justin told me when we were at <i>Honey Go Go</i>, "this, right now, is what you're training for."<br />
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Last Friday, with our due date coming closer and closer and me feeling more and more nervous about being too far from home, I made the decision to give myself one last day on the rocks before switching gears and enjoying the newly reset bouldering walls at the gym for whatever time I had left. Looking at my list to see if there were any easier climbs that I could put down quickly and end my season on a good note, I realized I had somehow never finished <i>The Business</i> at Northwest Branch.</div>
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It took me a couple minutes to remember what sequence had been working for me when I tried it a few years ago, but then I knocked it out in just a few tries. For something that wasn't nearly the hardest thing I've climbed in these past few months, it was definitely one of the most satisfying. On top of being something that I've wanted to do for a long time, it was just so different from anything else down in that area, with tight moves around big slopey bulges instead of just pulling on rough crimps. After topping out, I went back and did it a few more times just because it was so much fun.</div>
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Later that weekend, my wife went into the early stages of labor, and after a long couple days my daughter was born. So now here I am at the next stage of my life. True, it might be a few weeks before I actually get back out climbing again, but my plan at least is to keep my workouts up at home with the goal of coming back even stronger. Kinda hard to put into practice when all I want to do is just stare at her all day.</div>
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Still, I remind myself of what a few good climbing dads have told me... that they want their kids to grow up with the example of dads who are strong and still following their passions, even when logistics make it harder than it used to be. They want to be around for their kids for many many years, and know that staying strong and healthy is such a huge part of that. And that's what I want for my little girl, not to mention being able to take her out and play without constant fear that I'm going to injure myself.</div>
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Yesterday I got back into my morning stretching routine, which felt especially necessary after how tight my back became during our first night with her. Today I started my first ring workout since she's been born, even though I had to stop for an hour after warming up when she wouldn't let me put her down. Which is how I started typing this.</div>
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Now she's upstairs eating, and I'm running back and forth between my rings and my computer, typing during my rests. Maybe not the ideal workout plan, but for now it's what I've got. And I wouldn't have it any other way.</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-29396482427750588272018-04-15T20:13:00.000-04:002018-04-15T20:13:48.510-04:00Weighing inI've felt really heavy the last few times I've gone out bouldering. Okay, maybe what I've been eating has a little bit to do with it. But also, and this isn't just me making excuses, I've been doing a lot of this.<br />
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Mostly that extra weight in my chest and shoulders, without dedicating the time to finger strength to make up for it, has made me struggle more than I've wanted on overhung crimps. Holds that used to feel good now make me work to hold on to, leading me to pump out way faster. On the other hand, my slab climbing feels stronger than ever, with the core strength and hip and shoulder stability I've gained from the rings making it even easier to hold tight balancey positions. And with that ring strength added to the overhanging terrain of my new gym, and my back feeling more stable than it has in a long time, I've finally started to feel good on steep climbs outside again.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>Honey Go Go</i>, Gunpowder Falls, MD <i>Photo: Justin Piteleski</i></td></tr>
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This past Tuesday, wanting to sneak in another day outside to make up for the bad weather during what passed for my spring break, I drove straight to Gunpowder after work to take a shot at <i>Honey Go Go</i>. I had gone there to try it <a href="http://robinclose.blogspot.com/2014/03/mallside-slabs-and-honey-nogo.html">four years ago</a>, and whether I wasn't strong enough or just wasn't warmed up enough, I couldn't get myself to pull on to the start. And that's almost what happened this time too.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Justin Piteleski on <i>Honey Go Go </i></td></tr>
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By the time Justin and Mark arrived, I had felt the start holds again and was already starting to talk myself out of even trying. Fortunately, they weren't having any of my nonsense, and five tries later I was topping it out. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i> </i><span style="font-size: 12.8px;"> </span><i style="font-size: 12.8px;">Photo: Justin Piteleski</i></td></tr>
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I never expected it to go so quickly, and I might even have flashed it if I'd tried Justin's sequence the first time around instead of insisting on my own way the first four times. In any case, it was nice to go out and get on a climb where my extra weight (or the source of it anyway) was actually an advantage.<br />
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Two weeks out from the baby's due date, so hopefully enough time for a couple more good days like this, but if not at least I've ended my pre-parenthood climbing phase on a strong note. And after doing a 12 hour route competition with my 69 year old mom yesterday, and finding out that she went climbing with her usual crew this morning while I was home recovering, I don't think the parenthood phase will make me any weaker!<br />
<br />Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-14555966252430673672018-03-21T12:49:00.000-04:002018-04-15T17:39:51.845-04:00Review: Evolv NighthawkHaving posted <a href="http://robinclose.blogspot.com/2018/02/review-evolv-oracle.html">a review of the Oracle</a>, the new top of the line shoe from <a href="https://www.evolvsports.com/">Evolv</a>, it only seems fair that I give a little love to their new "low end" lace-up shoe, the Nighthawk. Coming in at only $79, they edge out the Defy as Evolv's cheapest model, and while it's often true that you get what you pay for, the Nighthawk is certainly proof that good quality doesn't always have to be expensive.<br />
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I actually picked up two pairs (sized 10.5 and 11) to have as comfortable options for a 12 hour route comp that's coming up next month, remembering how painful even my least aggressive shoes became by the end of the event last year. The smaller of the two pairs (my street size, and the size I use for other Evolv models), felt totally comfortable as soon as I put them on, though the leather has already started to stretch enough that going down half a size might have been a good idea. Using them for routes at the gym, I've worn them for over an hour at a time without any discomfort. </div>
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While they obviously don't perform as well as the Oracle, they can handle far smaller holds on slab to slightly overhanging terrain that I had anticipated. Whether on gym plastic, Maryland quartzite, or Pennsylvania diabase, they've consistently held me on 2-3mm edges, and the low angle makes smearing easy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Bitterness and Shadows</i>, Frederick, MD</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>God of Thumbder</i>, Mt. Ephraim, MD </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> God of Thumbder</i><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">, Mt. Ephraim, MD</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Highball Slab</i>, Mt. Gretna, PA<br />
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So what are the tradeoffs? Aside from the flatter shape obviously making steep terrain more difficult than aggressive shoes would, the biggest issue I've found is that the less tapered toe (compared to my other shoes) is harder to fit into thin slots. On one boulder I tested them on, this meant consistently popping out of a starting slot foot, even though they would have held the thinner edges above that I could have stepped directly down on.</div>
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Overall, I'd highly recommend the Nighthawk for newer climbers looking for a good all-around shoe, or for experienced climbers who want something they can wear all day on non-steep terrain without overly sacrificing precision. Give 'em a try!</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-4664102235021409612018-03-20T16:41:00.000-04:002018-03-21T11:48:23.389-04:00Spring?Spring is here! Well, sort of.<br />
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Despite the official change of season today, our school system let out three hours early for an ice storm that wasn't even supposed to hit until after midnight tonight, with enough snow forecast tomorrow that my climbing will probably be limited to plastic for a few days.</div>
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The last month hasn't been as productive for climbing as I'd wanted, primarily due to getting what turned out to be the flu toward the end of February. I did manage to make it down to Northwest Branch when I was sick, getting in a couple laps on <i>Crimps</i> if nothing else. </div>
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Even after I felt better and was back to work, it took a long time for my energy level to rebound, with both gym and outdoor sessions being depressingly tiring. I managed a trip up to Gretna at the beginning of March, perhaps not the best choice after being out late for Emily's gig the night before and having missed dinner because the bar's computer system was down. While I didn't send anything new, I did get on <i>Adjuster</i> for the first time since hurting myself on it a couple years back and having to be carried back to the car, so at least that was progress. Mostly I just got in a little bit of therapeutic slab time.</div>
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Last weekend I went to Mt. Ephraim with Dana and Srieng to work on a project that a couple of us had tried last year, then went across the road to White Rocks to play on <i>God of Thumbder</i> for a bit. That thing feels easier every time, but I still love it.</div>
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A couple days ago, after two previous attempts being blocked by weather, I made my 69 year old mom skip her usual Sunday gym climbing session to ride the three hours up to Sourlands with me, where I proceeded to drag her through mud pits and up what was basically a ski slope before another half an hour of rock and snow hopping to the boulders. Son of the year.</div>
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As with the last time I went there, the highlight of the day was definitely <i>From NY with Love</i>, one of the most gorgeous slabs I've ever experienced. So delicate, and a little intimidating with an awkwardly tiered landing, but worth it every time.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo: Pennie Close</i></td></tr>
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A little over a month left until our daughter is due, so hopefully I'll get a few more dry days between now and then, but I'll take what I can get. Happy spring!</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-13542071023450007292018-02-05T12:11:00.000-05:002018-02-05T12:11:03.117-05:00Review: Skratch Labs Anytime Energy Bars<a href="http://www.skratchlabs.com/">Skratch Labs</a> turns a big six years old this week, and they're growing up so fast! It seems like just yesterday that they were convinced it was impossible to make an energy bar that wasn't dry and terrible. "Fresh food is better for you," they said. "Chewing shouldn't burn more calories than your actual workout," they maintained.<br />
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Unfortunately, their fans and athletes couldn't keep things simple for them. Yes, we all like freshly made portables to fuel our endeavors, but sometimes we just don't prepare in time. We end up stopping at the gas station and picking up something that we know isn't going to sit well. And inevitably, we either find ourselves somewhere along the continuum of gastrointestinal regret, or crashing because we've decided that the wise decision was to eat nothing at all. For many athletes, bars are a necessary evil, and Skratch Labs stepped up to make a version that we could feel good about eating.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQJ6RdqRzs8cIxOT6206HPKaZlNC_Px4of3opjPX0_-u3lIupktohgQm_GWb8ecaCQVby7SDW_R8yGPsSLvTjbxRsMMYNzy-aJT3beLwhpEgQY6abSlfLo-BxuMouE44Etg5PFI9ZxqZd/s1600/IMG_0860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQJ6RdqRzs8cIxOT6206HPKaZlNC_Px4of3opjPX0_-u3lIupktohgQm_GWb8ecaCQVby7SDW_R8yGPsSLvTjbxRsMMYNzy-aJT3beLwhpEgQY6abSlfLo-BxuMouE44Etg5PFI9ZxqZd/s320/IMG_0860.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'll admit I was a little skeptical at first. As much as I wanted to believe that the company who had turned my opinion of sports drinks around could do the same for bars, all of my experience told me it was a long shot. And then from my first bite, I knew they had delivered. And the second bite. And soon I had scarfed the whole thing down without a trace of dry mouth or insecure stomach.<br />
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Like all of their creations, Skratch Labs went in with the idea that simpler is better, using as few and as minimally processed ingredients as possible, with no artificial coloring or flavoring. In addition to the higher moisture content, they lack preservatives, which does mean that they have a shorter shelf life than many similar products. Realistically though, I can't imagine a box of these being in my house and even coming close to the expiration date. The bars are easy to open, and made in a manageable size, all somewhere around 200 calories a piece depending on the flavor. And despite having an overall macronutrient profile that's comparable to many other bars, the actual sugar content is pleasingly low, with the highest coming in at only 7 grams.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">For those of you with allergies or on restricted diets, all three flavors are gluten free, dairy free, vegan, and kosher. They do, however, all contain nut butters if not solid nuts (almond and cashew).</span><br />
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Of the three flavors, the <b>Chocolate Chip & Almond</b> are probably the most mainstream. They're made with non-dairy chocolate chips, which I didn't even realize until someone else told me, but is great news for vegans or lactose intolerant folks who miss having good chocolate options. What surprised me about these was actually the dried cranberries, which are tart enough that I actually thought they were cherries at first. Just sweet enough without being overpowering, and a great variety of textures in every bite.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLfa9F7OQRHcVi2zD7N3B_HUqQKqAJ8mFuknKzhiFFV_fb5DgfhVqh_p4QUB5BLsPrOlroB028wUDiq_k-hJt0uksl0vIT1VFoVdZUJojsdoLErYIqVVw-EjPdSXTLhZ26spDu2_qR6V_v/s1600/IMG_0859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLfa9F7OQRHcVi2zD7N3B_HUqQKqAJ8mFuknKzhiFFV_fb5DgfhVqh_p4QUB5BLsPrOlroB028wUDiq_k-hJt0uksl0vIT1VFoVdZUJojsdoLErYIqVVw-EjPdSXTLhZ26spDu2_qR6V_v/s320/IMG_0859.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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If I had to pick a favorite, <b>Cherries & Pistachios</b> might be it. Just different enough from flavors I've gotten used to in the past, a nice balance of sweet and salty, and soft overall with enough crunch to keep it interesting. These have found a permanent place in my backpack, as well as in my wife's bag for when pregnancy hunger randomly hits.<br />
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<b>Ginger & Miso</b>. Yes, a miso flavored bar. This has to be the most polarizing of the three flavors, but has consistently disappeared at every demo I've done. The ginger and miso provide an overall savoriness that's perfect for breaking up the taste saturation we often encounter from an overabundance of sweet options. Fair warning though, these things also have red pepper that can range from unnoticeable to unexpectedly spicy from one bite to the next, and I tend to avoid them when my stomach is already feeling overly acidic. That being said, I love them right now when I'm out climbing in sub-freezing weather, with that kick providing the illusion of warmth on top of an already solid flavor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpwt0w1knQUYAbcsT6RAf5UP9tQmu2Nabr9gXPf8RhcZq2X7Y9Ya3sAZZj_jhCC6dTrZtjXk6KzK1Bmwk3wO94KIYNEmD-apkTdPqYMbKiq_m7x_BDzDRhFztDKJNzE06uS5761A_1B8Tg/s1600/IMG_2705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpwt0w1knQUYAbcsT6RAf5UP9tQmu2Nabr9gXPf8RhcZq2X7Y9Ya3sAZZj_jhCC6dTrZtjXk6KzK1Bmwk3wO94KIYNEmD-apkTdPqYMbKiq_m7x_BDzDRhFztDKJNzE06uS5761A_1B8Tg/s400/IMG_2705.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Of course I still love to cook, and having a fresh batch of cookies or other bite sized energy out at the rocks is something I'll continue to look forward to, but it's so nice to finally have a convenient pre-packaged option that I can happily share with my friends and family. Well done Skratch Labs. Check them out if you haven't already!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-89028839981392884402018-02-04T09:14:00.000-05:002018-02-04T09:14:47.226-05:00GS sloper redemptionSome days climbing just feels hard. Yesterday wasn't one of those days.<div>
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I'll admit that when I picked Mike up and the 17 degree air hit my hands as I shifted things to make room for him, for the briefest moment I questioned whether climbing was as good an idea as I had thought. By the time we got to Governor Stable though, it was already in the low 20s, as high as it had been at the warmest part of our previous visit. We ran laps around the parking lot, did calisthenics and stretches on the playground, and headed down the hill for a perfect day of diabase slopers.</div>
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After a quick warmup, including lots more jumping jacks and general flailing about, we settled in at the slab below <i>Huck</i> so Mike could try <i>Pimp Smack</i> and I could take another shot at <i>Simon</i>. For such a pretty little slab, with seemingly endless options for feet, those crimps at the back had never quite been within reach.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo: Mike Brest</i></td></tr>
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Fortunately Adam came down the trail and was able to piece together his memory of finishing it last year, using a high right foot that I hadn't been able to hold when I first tried it a few years back in my old soft shoes. My new Oracles toed into the diagonal edge perfectly, but I still found my left hand slipping off the sloper in the process of getting my foot that high. Then for some reason I decided to shift my hand down and crimp the bottom of the sloper dish, and instantly felt solid.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Mike Brest</i></td></tr>
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I've never thought of myself as particularly strong on slopers, but early this past summer I was at Gretna with a friend who I had always assumed was better on slopers than me, yet he was falling off holds that I found easy. Looking at how we both used other holds, we realized that my greater comfort on slopers was a result of my preference for open handed crimping, which puts my hand in a similar position to that of holding a sloper. While figuring that out was a good confidence builder at the time, realizing yesterday that the extra leverage from my fingertips can give me more of an advantage than increasing contact area felt like a game changer for me.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Mike Brest</i></td></tr>
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With about an hour left and the temperature up to a balmy 30 degrees, I wanted to see if I had the energy to keep the momentum going and finish <i>No Moss</i>, after peeling off the finish jug last time. Pulling on, the start hold didn't feel as good as I wanted, but then the first sloper felt amazing. And the next. And right when I expected to be landing on the pad, I realized I was comfortably hanging from the finish instead. It was a bit anti-climactic actually, aside from realizing that the climb somehow made me look like an angry pirate.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Mike Brest</i></td></tr>
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This may be an unpopular opinion, but here's hoping these cold days stick around a while!</div>
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Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-85631492631711803252018-02-01T06:52:00.000-05:002018-02-07T07:27:54.608-05:00Review: Evolv OracleIt's only been a week since I first climbed in the new <a href="http://www.evolvsports.com/">Evolv</a> Oracles, but even after the first day I was ready to call them the best climbing shoe I've ever used.<br />
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Backing up a bit first though. Anyone who climbed with me before the past couple years probably gave me a hard time about the fact that I bought the same shoe year after year, and broke them in until they were entirely upturned to match my smear-focused climbing style. At some point it occurred to me that I could probably find shoes to fit me better out of the box instead of using ones that only fit the way I liked after the second resole. Finally the universe intervened in the form of a free pair of Kronos, and my first time taking them out I was amazed to find that I immediately cruised up a slab problem that had taken me two hours of work when I first put it up. Soon the Shaman became my all-around shoe for everything except hard heel and toe hooks, which I would switch to the Agro for. While it took me a while to get used to the decreased smearing ability of the stiffer rubber, the edging ability blew me away, and I quickly started ticking off slabs in my Shamans that I had been unable to do in any other shoe.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Joes to Pros</i> variation, Northwest Branch, MD</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i>From NY With Love, </i>Sourlands, NJ<i> Photo: Logan Zimmerman</i></td></tr>
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When I heard the Oracle described as the toe of the Shaman and the heel of the Agro, I was intrigued. After using them twice in the gym and once outside in the past week, I can say that description is spot on. The toe has all of the precision and edging power I've come to expect from the Shaman, locking me in on steep terrain and letting me stand on next to nothing on slabs. On the nearly frictionless wooden holds of my favorite training board, I was able to grab onto even the rounded edges beautifully.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJEJzWF8oIV_3UA6LZM1vsdcJQjR2XZuwIMAnCcEEj_E8T-eC4z0yW9osjtrEqrD_JwvpbwXjMM1wUO6g6qaDzQnFhr-_8sNc2sUFeoUWyUY9WNCOVjqj7ckhtxixWJGFRCdH1pxsXY0_1/s1600/IMG_2663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJEJzWF8oIV_3UA6LZM1vsdcJQjR2XZuwIMAnCcEEj_E8T-eC4z0yW9osjtrEqrD_JwvpbwXjMM1wUO6g6qaDzQnFhr-_8sNc2sUFeoUWyUY9WNCOVjqj7ckhtxixWJGFRCdH1pxsXY0_1/s320/IMG_2663.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i> Photo: Pennie Close</i></td></tr>
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While the front of the Oracle doesn't have the total rubber coverage of the Agro, they still hold their own in toe-hook sequences, and I felt like the laces stayed out of the way better then velcro when I used more of my foot.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLx1QLmvIM7T2U41s9hHYncHnzqUQbu7Lit-RpCeJ732H0TfFioPuf_d-cufSH_R_lBfd4JTkWQC9dHcAl6LvSG7gq9nF5m-UwtHy7a6kFtEUAYOqSvz2_t_8pFR9Y8SFtRPXPJwuprSB7/s1600/IMG_2577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLx1QLmvIM7T2U41s9hHYncHnzqUQbu7Lit-RpCeJ732H0TfFioPuf_d-cufSH_R_lBfd4JTkWQC9dHcAl6LvSG7gq9nF5m-UwtHy7a6kFtEUAYOqSvz2_t_8pFR9Y8SFtRPXPJwuprSB7/s400/IMG_2577.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Baron Harkonen</i>, Cunningham Falls, MD<i> Photo: Charlie Garcia</i></td></tr>
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I do feel a slight amount of give when I hook with the side of my heel in the Oracle, but straight on heel-hooks are totally solid. The shape of the heel conforms well enough to my foot that I almost feel like I could already heel-hook with them unlaced, and then the FSS tensioning system locks it in place way better than I would have ever imagined in a lace-up shoe.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIgmcDaes0J4a1eB2Kp8fJBdDbrYThqWarmwCL_nVCLUNUJcmINacrzJ9OTO8THOhHaFUxDS7uDxihzuaZzkMrpNZGZX_1HnFpAvO8bvqUbsy2HNiomUEbRpUhNoWfAaO-6NlRKi6FL5m/s1600/IMG_2661.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIgmcDaes0J4a1eB2Kp8fJBdDbrYThqWarmwCL_nVCLUNUJcmINacrzJ9OTO8THOhHaFUxDS7uDxihzuaZzkMrpNZGZX_1HnFpAvO8bvqUbsy2HNiomUEbRpUhNoWfAaO-6NlRKi6FL5m/s400/IMG_2661.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo: Pennie Close</i></td></tr>
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In terms of sizing, I wear the Shaman in 10/10.5 split and the Agro in 10.5, and went with 10.5 for the Oracle. Normally the Shaman fits me immediately out of the box, and the Agro feels great once it's actually on my feet, though I have a little trouble getting my heel through the opening the first few times. The Oracle fit almost perfectly out of the box, with the laces accommodating my foot size difference enough that so far I haven't felt the urgent need to split sizes. Having exclusively worn velcro for a couple years, I did find tops of my toes were hurting after a while from over-tightening the laces the first day, but after keeping them looser the next two times the issue was alleviated. In fact, my second time using the Oracle at the gym, I climbed vertical/slab routes with them totally untied to let the skin recover a little more, and found that I was still able to climb at my onsight level with no added difficulty.<br />
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So there you have it. The Oracle will definitely be replacing the Shaman as my standard shoe both indoors and out. That being said, Evolv has two more fantastic looking shoes coming out that I was even more excited about than these. It's a safe bet you'll be hearing more from me when they do!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-6476925227445676312018-01-29T20:20:00.001-05:002018-03-20T09:06:46.743-04:00New year, new focusHappy 2018! It's been a great one for me so far, largely colored by the knowledge that I'm finally going to be a dad in about three months. I feel like I should be nervous, but if I am, the excitement is doing a great job of masking it. If anything, I've found myself feeling more motivated these past several months than I have in a long time. Maybe my schedule won't change as much as I think it will, but right now while my schedule is all my own, I've been taking full advantage of the fitness area at our gorgeous new climbing gym. Focusing on full-body antagonist work that I can easily replicate at home while the baby naps, my back is finally in good enough shape to let me take advantage of the vastly steeper bouldering terrain that the new gym offers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwOD4X4PPdidq6aytFuXmp_0nI8O66KfO31S56nXsl3p06XH3mkZmxS4pdGfMBKlgA1qSxeq1Z2YIv_uyrEi4bZx_KyaD5mOfuNnqCsR2lRLmrj4iTxVF6qhg_Udl37ipwg9EWYyhjWoY/s1600/IMG_2341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="748" data-original-width="748" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRwOD4X4PPdidq6aytFuXmp_0nI8O66KfO31S56nXsl3p06XH3mkZmxS4pdGfMBKlgA1qSxeq1Z2YIv_uyrEi4bZx_KyaD5mOfuNnqCsR2lRLmrj4iTxVF6qhg_Udl37ipwg9EWYyhjWoY/s400/IMG_2341.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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While my after work bouldering sessions have mostly become training days at the gym, I've been trying to get out as close to every weekend as possible, generally aiming for quantity and variety of movement over any harder projecting. With so much out there that I want to climb, and the freedom to get out wherever I want right now, I don't want to look back and realize that I spent most of the winter staring at the same few feet of rock.<br />
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After not getting out for the first couple weeks of the year because I thought the weather wasn't good enough, I ended up heading to Governor Stable as an excuse to have lunch at the Troegs brewery afterward. Even with temps in the low teens when we got there, twenty minutes of cardio and calisthenics in the parking lot had me feeling toasty all day, and the friction was the best I've ever felt on diabase slopers. Unfortunately I still kept peeling off the finish jug of <i>No Moss</i>, but the day was a great reminder that even seemingly sub-optimal conditions can actually be fantastic with the right mindset.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <i> Photo: Mike Brest</i></td></tr>
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Last weekend I went out for a much warmer day of Sugarloaf area bouldering, first to Mount Ephraim, and then up to White Rocks. We started off on the Magical Boulder, where I got on <i>Awakening</i> for the first time in almost five years. Even though it felt easy now considering how much work I put into it back then, the movement was every bit as good as I remembered, and I would still rank it among the best boulders I've climbed anywhere.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo: Taimur Ahmad</i></td></tr>
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Over at White Rocks, we took a short tour around before stopping to finish our day on the slab at the base of the boulderfield. Taimur snagged the second ascent of <i>God of Thumbder</i>, managing to continue traversing low for a more direct link into the start of <i>Crimp Life</i> than I had thought possible when I first tried it a couple years ago, and I was happy to find that his beta worked for me now too,<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taimur Ahmad on <i>God of Thumbder</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Taimur Ahmad</i></td></tr>
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Saturday I went out to Cunningham Falls, intending to work on <i>Never Let Me Go</i>, but deciding after a few tries that I'm not quite as ready for the first move as I'd hoped. Instead I went for a mileage day, repeating a few of my favorite climbs on the Jonah boulder, and working out a couple of the link-ups that have come to mind in the past few visits. After finishing the link from <i>Belly</i> into <i>Baron Harkonen</i>, I decided to reverse it into a <i>Baron-Belly</i> link that I didn't have enough time to finish after working out the moves, but was a lot of fun nonetheless. In any case, it's still really exciting to be able to spend this much time on steep terrain again without worrying about every move injuring me.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHutCLIXs60F_c-n-gX8oKjBETykhchNONZMdRy-bp2q2j5ezIBgceMTLkcCBkwUZQM0E3oFxLio4uMwfjAbzPkYTHYLM8H1l_njtze_fTnQZ73ubhzepNTKtm2QJ5CfkvR5MHpcLqIRJN/s1600/IMG_2598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHutCLIXs60F_c-n-gX8oKjBETykhchNONZMdRy-bp2q2j5ezIBgceMTLkcCBkwUZQM0E3oFxLio4uMwfjAbzPkYTHYLM8H1l_njtze_fTnQZ73ubhzepNTKtm2QJ5CfkvR5MHpcLqIRJN/s400/IMG_2598.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i style="font-size: 12.8px;"> Photo: Charlie Garcia</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRsZGkTbhu7JXcxLVkU4v3_Jcl_5kCdwjhcXXDilD_C_iv0BN_29uuWNhDLBYgJywTKqVkEZDCkOYRHEO1CDAJ_VKYDudbRoMRDXlzZ-KHtmAwu_P3KzPftXsmEGMUTiFZUpmu7hThboD/s1600/IMG_2597.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="1080" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRsZGkTbhu7JXcxLVkU4v3_Jcl_5kCdwjhcXXDilD_C_iv0BN_29uuWNhDLBYgJywTKqVkEZDCkOYRHEO1CDAJ_VKYDudbRoMRDXlzZ-KHtmAwu_P3KzPftXsmEGMUTiFZUpmu7hThboD/s400/IMG_2597.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo: Charlie Garcia</i></td></tr>
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Fingers crossed this good weather will hold out for this weekend. I see some more diabase slopers in my future!<br />
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<br />Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-46602754014309449492017-11-18T12:11:00.000-05:002017-11-18T12:11:17.178-05:00Where has the time gone?Almost Thanksgiving already, and somehow I haven't posted on here since February. In fact, I started writing this over a month ago and am just now getting around to finishing it! Partially it was the fact that other obsessions led me to spend far less time on the computer than usual, which isn't really a bad thing. Specifically, I've been making it a point to read new books this year (14 so far!) instead of just reading the same Tolkien stories over and over, as well as playing a ton of fiddle. <br />
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I actually did do less climbing this past spring than I wanted to though, continuing struggle with back injuries that I later found out were due to having two bulging disks in my lower spine. The good news is that stretching, PT, and changing how I do many basic motions throughout my day has made a huge difference for me, so I feel like this winter I'll finally be able to get my climbing back on track. I've even been able to start getting out on several of the overhung boulders that I had resigned myself to never being able to touch without injury, and it's brought a whole new level of excitement for me. I'm not an old man yet!<br />
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So what else has my year brought? Well, two big trips to start with. In the spring I spent a fantastic week visiting my mother-in-law in Vietnam, which had hands down the most welcoming people I've ever met while traveling, as well as some of the best food.<br />
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This summer I had planned to roadtrip out west and eventually join friends in Squamish, and then they decided to go climb for two weeks in France and Switzerland instead. So across the ocean I went!<br />
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Other than that, I've just been putting in a bunch of training time at the gym and then getting out locally whenever I can. Back in March I got Taimur out for a tour of Bushwhack, where we knocked out the short slab that had shut a bunch of us down a couple years ago. It was crazy to see how easily he smeared up in his Agros when my old Miuras had always greased right off, but with my own pair not arriving until the next day, I managed to find an edgier way to the top in my Shamans.<br />
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Last weekend I went back out with Indy and Rob, where among other things we dropped a rope so Rob could enjoy the slabby glory of <i>Nine and Three Quarters</i> without worrying about the backbreaking fall.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUOc4sk2U3DIWhqgW_WwtZZh3EgAKlCDNc4eshSL9OD2Z1XC0aottvGnKhp41N0QySm9p_dUYTOO05lePTPqpQywjTUkBRM8qUEUlu0A4Mn8ziCLnNXoqxt1zdGva3bQe2-Eza3h-zvVQ/s1600/Bushwhack+Rocks+111217+WM-173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSUOc4sk2U3DIWhqgW_WwtZZh3EgAKlCDNc4eshSL9OD2Z1XC0aottvGnKhp41N0QySm9p_dUYTOO05lePTPqpQywjTUkBRM8qUEUlu0A4Mn8ziCLnNXoqxt1zdGva3bQe2-Eza3h-zvVQ/s400/Bushwhack+Rocks+111217+WM-173.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo by Mark 'Indy" Kochte</i></td></tr>
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<br />I've started getting out to Catoctin/Cunningham a little more, and have been especially happy that my back has been able to handle the steepness of the Jonah boulder. While it hasn't quite felt ready for the first move of <i>Never Let Me Go</i>, it's held up nicely for <i>Baron Harkonen</i> and a couple of fun variations.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3dcakmPA8tMDhwFo87xc-Wx_iDCrw7IA0K9O1-MT3GzJhbI43qzw4d3R4GVLdMV-DUS7KKRvFSDLwsdfMFYnrNoCZhhiCb43dIgwGF_yvuFMhxv8CHqddMgIKH5Z7MLknnT2XKlrhiUP/s1600/IMG_9086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii3dcakmPA8tMDhwFo87xc-Wx_iDCrw7IA0K9O1-MT3GzJhbI43qzw4d3R4GVLdMV-DUS7KKRvFSDLwsdfMFYnrNoCZhhiCb43dIgwGF_yvuFMhxv8CHqddMgIKH5Z7MLknnT2XKlrhiUP/s320/IMG_9086.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo by John Brunson</i></td></tr>
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<br />As usual in the Fall, I've also been making some after work trips to Northwest Branch, running through my usual circuits and especially happy to find all of the holds on <i>Seam Nightmares</i> finally useable again.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMiT4tbLJa7oyzWpQ8sn_NbBJYKgobHl8l2zhioX9FXuAA5XauAzcKIs2P4Vg9y_VA_iUEMSnwdO6xH9IHCyfz-_vVuQcncmrhY9IdiuIm3IQlG3CxBYrm4666SV1GVULvkz2Rl47d3Fu9/s1600/IMG_0527.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMiT4tbLJa7oyzWpQ8sn_NbBJYKgobHl8l2zhioX9FXuAA5XauAzcKIs2P4Vg9y_VA_iUEMSnwdO6xH9IHCyfz-_vVuQcncmrhY9IdiuIm3IQlG3CxBYrm4666SV1GVULvkz2Rl47d3Fu9/s320/IMG_0527.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And with perfect diabase temperatures setting in, of course I've been making the trip up to Gretna whenever I can. So far I haven't done anything too exciting, but my back has finally been feeling good enough to try <i>Equilateral</i>, although I was so tired that I peeled off the last move by the time I had worked out my sequence for the rest of it. Guess that just means I'll enjoy it even more when I do top it out.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ckCx8EsOzfzmiyO6-MCxcR0t5lV70wCOXgQfxeZprYaeirkDlFN1xGxQ7mn6HtcxapAAycuo1FgoH__P1IFRJJIiJSLmjI51o2Yc0TYdNBSbqDuwezJqIr8OUjpkoLegH3icXQcWTR2l/s1600/22343677_10104393933818358_107048577_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="890" data-original-width="1334" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ckCx8EsOzfzmiyO6-MCxcR0t5lV70wCOXgQfxeZprYaeirkDlFN1xGxQ7mn6HtcxapAAycuo1FgoH__P1IFRJJIiJSLmjI51o2Yc0TYdNBSbqDuwezJqIr8OUjpkoLegH3icXQcWTR2l/s400/22343677_10104393933818358_107048577_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i> Photo by Mark Profeta</i></td></tr>
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Until next time!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-62938740128878519472017-02-20T07:39:00.000-05:002017-02-20T07:39:37.331-05:00SometimesSometimes February in Maryland is really cold.<br />
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Sometimes we can't climb because the rocks are covered in snow.<br />
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Sometimes it's really warm though, and we decide to kayak out to climb some island cliffs.<br />
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Sometimes we roll the kayak, and the water is really cold, because it's still February.<br />
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Sometimes our friends have to save us, and even though we didn't get to climb, we're happy to have such good friends.<br />
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Actually, that's a lot more than sometimes. In the last 14 months, I've been carried back to my car, had my head bandaged after a rock hit it, and now been dragged out of an icy river. Thanks Indy for making sure another of my unexpected adventures had a happy ending!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-82148798206775942222017-02-05T18:01:00.001-05:002017-02-06T05:48:13.282-05:00Sourland slab fun2017 is off to a strong start, if only because I've so far managed to stick to my goal of not injuring myself. Seriously, the amount of lower back and related core injuries I've had over the past couple years has been depressing, and I feel like every time I start to get strong, I mess myself up again.<br />
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Rather than leave it entirely to luck, I've tried to be proactive by stretching and foam rolling for at least half an hour every morning, lifting (and I hate lifting) to balance out my muscles, and by taking a break from running for the foreseeable future. While I've managed to run for most of the last year without straining my knees, I can't help but feel that the repeated impact isn't doing my back much good. I've also made it a point to limit myself as much as possible to slab and vertical terrain, which admittedly I've done a pretty poor job of so far. Yesterday I stuck to the plan though, driving up to the Sourlands in New Jersey for a slab that's been on my mind ever since I first saw it four or five years ago. Who would have thought that one of my top three boulders that I wanted to do anywhere would be in New Jersey?<br />
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Granted, when I first saw it, I had no idea how hard it was. Walking up the hill toward the boulders at my first Sourland Smackdown, it was the first boulder I saw, and I decided it would make a great warmup. Then I realized it was one of the open projects listed on the scorecard, and went off to find something a little easier to start with. Tim Keenan managed to put it down that day though, calling it <i>From NY with Love</i>, and I've wanted to get back to it ever since.<br />
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I tried two weekends ago, only to get there and find everything drenched. Yesterday was perfect though. Bone dry, with a high of 35, and just enough sun to keep me warm in between goes. The boulder actually went down relatively quickly too, though I'll admit I bailed off the top twice before sucking it up and going for the lip. Then I just reminded myself that I might never get conditions that good again, and was embarrassed to find that the move to the lip was way easier than I was making it.<br />
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Felt good to put this one down.<br />
<br />Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-39300708493738558692016-12-01T18:08:00.000-05:002016-12-01T18:08:41.112-05:00Skratch Labs cookie mix: 4CA cookie recipeAs temperatures fall and ideal bouldering weather in the Mid-Atlantic arrives, I find myself getting just as excited about the shift in which things I want to cook. In my mind, summer is grilling season, and winter is baking season. Yes, I understand that both can be done year round, and I've certainly had my manliness questioned for admitting that I'd rather be next to a warm oven in the winter than out on the deck with tongs in hand and snow in my hair, but if anything that dividing line (albeit blurry) just makes me more excited for the change in season and the arrival of new food options.<div>
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It's fitting that ideal bouldering weather is also ideal baking weather, since bouldering and cookies are one of the best pairings I've ever found. I still don't know nearly as much about the ins and outs of baking as I do about other types of cooking, but <a href="https://www.skratchlabs.com/">Skratch Labs</a>' cookie mix gave me a great jumping off point, and the 4CA (coffee, cinnamon, coconut, chocolate, almond) cookies I make with it are my favorite. Given the amount of requests I get for the recipe when I've brought them to demos or out climbing, I figured it was time to write it down.</div>
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<b>4CA cookies</b></div>
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<u>Ingredients:</u></div>
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1 box Skratch Labs cookie mix</div>
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1 stick butter</div>
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1 egg</div>
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1/3 cup mini chocolate chips</div>
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1/3 cup unsweetened coconut</div>
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1/3 cup almonds</div>
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1 tbsp coffee</div>
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1 tbsp cinnamon (I prefer Vietnamese cinnamon)</div>
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<u>Preparation:</u></div>
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1) Preheat oven to 350F.</div>
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2) Crush almonds or grind them in a food processor.</div>
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3) Combine all ingredients except butter and egg. Mix until evenly distributed.</div>
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4) Add the butter and egg, and continue mixing until all of the dough sticks together</div>
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5) Place rounded teaspoons of dough on baking sheet for individual cookies, or press it into a rectangle on the baking sheet for cookie bars.</div>
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6) Bake 10-15 minutes for individual cookies, or 15-25 minutes for bars, depending on desired firmness.</div>
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7) Share them with your friends!</div>
Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-17239860411957241202016-11-30T20:33:00.000-05:002016-11-30T20:33:30.521-05:00Vegas Thanksgiving 2016A week ago I was settling in to Vegas for our yearly Thanksgiving visit. Although we've been doing it for years, I rarely post about it here, mostly because each trip seems so similar to the last that I feel like mentioning it would be repetitive. Then I realized that as new places have opened, and our tastes have changed, this year actually was different enough from my original experiences out there that I wanted to pass along some of my favorite parts of it.<br />
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All of our Vegas trips start at Red Rocks, usually driving out to <a href="http://desertrocksportslv.com/">Desert Rock Sports</a> to rent a crash pad (still $15 for regular size and $25 for highball), which we love since we don't have to drag pads through airports in two directions for a few hours of bouldering. Recently we've been stopping at the Red Rock casino on the way out for a bite to eat, usually just at the food court there, but in the past couple years at Yard House because we've gotten there late enough that the main restaurants are open. I know it's a chain, but (and teenage me never would have said this) I was craving their brussels sprouts anyway. Maybe not the best thing in my stomach before climbing, but tasty.<br />
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Although we usually just head to the Kraft boulders, this year we decided to take a drive on the scenic loop first since we'd never done that, and decided to check out some of the bouldering along the loop. We only made one climbing stop, at the Sandstone Quarry boulder, but we had it to ourselves and got a bit of fun slab movement in to stretch our bodies back out after so much sitting.<br />
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Now here's where, as a climber, I'm supposed to say that I hated leaving that perfect serene desert for the unnatural bright light of the strip and the wasteful, capitalistic, and shallow things it embodies. Except I have to admit I kind of love it. True, I would never want to be there for more than a few days, but there's always something to see and do, no matter your preferences. My preference is eating and drinking my way through the trip, having good conversations, and watching all of the interesting people go by. I never get tired of the sights!<br />
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This year we stayed at Caesar's Palace, which we'd somehow never stayed at before despite hanging out there every year. My favorite is still Paris, with painted ceilings making me feel like I'm outside, but Caesar's had a comfort when I was staying there that I'd never felt when just walking through. Not that I'd ever want to spend a whole trip in one casino, but with the good variety of bars and restaurants there, Caesar's was a place where I might be able to do that. It didn't hurt that we got an upgraded room for my birthday, and the view was beautiful.<br />
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All of our breakfasts were at Caesar's, and I'll admit that breakfast was the one meal that surprised me with how expensive it was. <a href="http://cafeamericanovegas.com/">Cafe Americano</a> has always had good food when we've gone there on the past couple trips, and although the prices do seem a bit steep, the servings are pretty big. For me that's a downside, since I don't want to be too full to look forward to all of the other great food out there, but I think most people would feel better about it. The veggie benedict I had this year was actually a reasonable size though, and the Brown Derby I washed it down with helped my morning off to a great start.<br />
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I actually liked our breakfast at <a href="https://www.caesars.com/caesars-palace/restaurants/payard-pastisserie#.WD97TqIrJE4">Payard</a> a bit better, though I'll admit I'm partial to pastries, and the pastry basket was one of the cheapest things on the menu. All three were tasty, and way bigger than I expected considering I got to choose three of them.<br />
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Our final breakfast of the trip took a completely different direction, with Emily wanting to go to the 24 hour <a href="https://www.caesars.com/caesars-palace/restaurants/beijing-noodle-number-9#.WD97YKIrJE4">Beijing Noodle No. 9</a>, since the wait had been too long for dinner the night before. Again, not cheap, but huge portions of delicious food. Our stomachs also felt surprisingly good for the flight, considering how much we ate.<br />
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We were never really hungry enough for lunch, but we did get some snacks at <a href="https://www.mirage.com/en/restaurants/lvb-burgers.html">LVB Burger</a> (Mirage) and <a href="http://www.chinapoblano.com/">China Poblano</a> (Cosmopolitan), which I had been wanting to try for a while. Everything we tried at China Poblano was decent enough, though I didn't find it as good as at the other Jose Andres restaurants I've visited.<br />
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For dinner the first night, I had toyed with requesting our standby favorite <a href="https://www.thomaskeller.com/bouchonlasvegas">Bouchon</a> (Venetian) for my birthday dinner, but we were pretty wiped and didn't feel like leaving our own casino. Too bad in a way, since I loved the boudin blanc last year and those fries are always incredible.<br />
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Instead we ended up staying at Caesar's and going to the <a href="https://www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/pub-and-grill-las-vegas/">Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill</a>, another place I've wanted to try for a while. We split a bunch of small plates, and the scotch egg was one of the better ones I've had.<br />
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<a href="https://www.bellagio.com/en/restaurants/harvest.html">Harvest</a> (Bellagio) was our choice for Thanksgiving dinner, and although we've learned that our Friday night meals are almost always better than what we get on Thanksgiving, the mushroom porridge I had was delicious. Dressing up was fun too.<br />
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Our last dinner of the trip was at <a href="https://www.caesars.com/caesars-palace/restaurants/mesa-grill">Mesa Grill</a>, another of our standby spots, and the mushroom quesadilla was as awesome as ever. Apparently awesome enough that I ate it before grabbing a photo.<br />
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We also went to a few good new (to us) cocktail places, on top of our usual stops. <a href="http://www.rhumbarlv.com/">Rhumbar</a> (Mirage) has always been one of our favorites, both for the quality and reasonable cost of the cocktails, and for the outdoor couches with heat lamps. A perfect compromise when the Black Friday #optoutside thing wasn't going to happen for us.<br />
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<a href="http://www.publichouselv.com/">Public House</a> (Venetian) was a place I knew I wanted to get back to, but I didn't realize exactly how long I'd want to spend there. Well worth the stop!<br />
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Another of our favorites has always been the <a href="https://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/lounges-bars/chandelier">Chandelier</a> (Cosmopolitan), and we did enjoy our stop there as usual.<br />
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We also got a chance to check out <a href="https://www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com/lounges-bars/vesper-bar">Vesper</a> (Cosmopolitan), which had a fun concept of featuring several classic cocktails along with their own take on them. I was really happy with the Mother Club, a variation on a Bobby Burns.<br />
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The one place I hadn't heard about, and certainly didn't expect to be a good cocktail spot, was the <a href="https://www.caesars.com/caesars-palace/things-to-do/montecristo_cigar_bar#.VvVm6uIrLX4?clickid=3uw2RA3zS0I43EtzsdW0nWppUkSy9G1pMUku1c0&iradid=153&irpid=10078&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_source=Skimbit+Ltd.&utm_campaign=AM_brand">Montecristo cigar bar</a> (Caesar's Palace). We took a look at the cocktail menu in passing, and I wanted to at least stop to try the Rolling Smoke, made with Makers 46, Laphroaig, and a coffee-infused Carpano Antica. Totally worth it!<br />
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A big revelation for me this time out there was how fun it is to run on the Strip. I usually get up sometime between 5:30-6:00 and take a walk until everyone else wakes up, but on this trip decided to go for runs on two of my three mornings. With well lit streets, lots to see, and almost flat ground, the miles flew by quickly and I still felt energized when I finished.<br />
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So that's that. Funny how a trip I make every year can seem so different every time, but that's part of what I love about it, and why I'm always looking forward to going back. For now though, it's good to be home!<br />
<br />Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-19354347066128403672016-11-29T19:01:00.000-05:002016-11-29T19:01:51.059-05:00Relaxing at GretnaSunday was one of my favorite kind of climbing days... one where nobody gave a crap, and was just as happy climbing high quality easy lines as wrecking themselves at their limit. With bodies still struggling to adjust from our Vegas Thanksgiving, but with weather too good to pass up, Emily and I dragged ourselves out of bed for a fantastic day of Gretna climbing with Rob and Jason.<br />
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With travel stiffness on top of my ongoing quest to not pull my back again, I planned even more than usual to stick to slab and vertical. The only vague plan we had was that Rob and Jason wanted to get on <i>Bashista Yo Sista</i>, and I was excited for the chance to check out some of the less travelled boulders in the Bulge/Shamu areas.<br />
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After warming up at <i>Help Meat</i> and <i>Josh in the Box</i>, we walked over to where I figured everyone would get on <i>Divine Wind</i>, but somehow for the first time ever a group of four all decided that <i>Slice</i> looked good. Having done it a few times, I played with variations while everyone worked out the regular beta, and although they didn't get any sends I was impressed that they all were willing to play on razor crimps for that long.<br />
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Deciding that skin conservation was more important than persistence, Rob and Jason went uphill to <i>Bashista</i>, with Rob taking it down before long.<br />
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After pulling on and deciding it would destroy my back, I instead ran some laps on the neighboring <i>Pounder</i> and <i>Quarter Pounder</i>, both fun options for any who want to stay on more vertical ground while their friends work the main event. I'm not sure if the line has a name, but it was also really fun to start on the crimp plate in the center of the boulder and climb into either of the aretes or just straight up.<br />
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Just downhill from there, <i>Love Potion</i> was a really cool slabby arete climb, with plenty of feet in the cracked surface for those who don't trust smears, and even enough face hands to do it without the arete for an extra challenge. After playing on that for a bit, Emily and I made a stop at <i>Altered State</i> before rejoining the boys and moving on.<br />
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After that, it was a bit of wandering as we made our way out, just checking out some of the sections we'd never been to. We did make a quick stop at <i>Stand Fast</i> and <i>Contrasting Impacts</i>, both of which would be excellent for those new to the area, but otherwise didn't get on anything until <i>Overlord</i>. Having never seen <i>Overlord</i> before, once I took a look at it, I couldn't believe it wasn't mobbed. Pretty sure it's the best V2 in the park, and one of the best I've ever done. Slightly overhung with huge jugs and really cool movement, and a cool view down the hill behind. Such a great climb! I also did a quick run up <i>Choppy</i>, which was fun to do while in the area, but <i>Overlord</i> was the main attraction for sure.<br />
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Obviously any trip to Gretna is partly just an excuse for me to have dinner at the Troegs brewery afterward, which I'd highly recommend for the food even if you don't drink. The duck confit was delicious, and Mad Elf fondue was as awesome as ever. Not exactly the traditional post-climbing pizza/burrito stop, but sometimes it's good to be different.<br />
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Fingers crossed for a few more weeks without snow!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-54760998304056417822016-11-22T19:42:00.000-05:002016-11-22T19:42:57.976-05:00Thanks MAC!Tis the season to be thankful, and before I go pack to fly out to Vegas in the morning for some sunny Red Rocks routes and a few fun days on the Strip, I wanted to take a moment to thank the <a href="http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org/">Mid Atlantic Climbers</a> for all the incredible work they've done this year. As our local <a href="https://www.accessfund.org/">Access Fund</a> affiliate, they mobilize a strong group of volunteers year after year to tackle a variety of projects throughout the region, but this year has been an especially great one for them.<br />
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Probably the biggest MAC accomplishment was their success, alongside the Access Fund, in working with the National Park Service to lift Catoctin Mountain Park's longstanding bouldering ban. While there's certainly more than enough other rock along that ridge to keep any of us busy for a lifetime, the density of steep bouldering in the park is a huge addition to the diversity of Maryland bouldering. I've only made it out there once since access was restored, but I'm sure I'll be spending plenty more time there now that temps are dropping!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Boss Hog <i>Photo: John Brunson</i></td></tr>
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MAC volunteers have also been in contact with park staff at Harpers Ferry about raptor closures and other access issues, as well as conducting their usual variety of Adopt-a-Crag events. Last weekend, their annual cleanup event at Northwest Branch was an even bigger deal than usual, conducted as part of Access Fund and Black Diamond's joint ROCK Project Tour. Together with the Access Fund's traveling conservation team, and several world class Black Diamond athletes, MAC volunteers put in an incredible morning of work cleaning graffiti and trash, maintaining trails, removing invasive species, and moving tons of rock to build a better landing area under <i>Crimptastic</i>.<br />
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MAC has also been running a great series of guest posts from local climbers about their favorite climbing spots around the area, including two (<a href="http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org/news/2016/04/climbings-past-and-future-in-patapsco-state-park-part-1/">here</a> and <a href="http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org/news/2016/06/climbings-past-and-future-in-patapsco-state-park-part-2/">here</a>) from the legendary John Kelbel about Patapsco State Park, and <a href="http://www.midatlanticclimbers.org/news/2016/11/the-sykesville-secret-is-out/">this one</a> from my good friend John Brunson about some of the gems of the Sykesville area, including video of Sykesville strongman Will Anglin knocking out hard projects during his recent trip home. Check them out, and stay tuned for more to come.<br />
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The official Mid Atlantic Climber project schedule is done for the year, but they're always looking for more good people to help out with future ones, especially those who are willing to do some of the behind the scenes work. If you have talents that you think they could use, they'd love to hear from you.<br />
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Happy Thanksgiving!Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-711578724993177258.post-45187719908493915612016-11-20T10:00:00.000-05:002016-11-20T10:00:17.953-05:00Straight on till morningDisclaimer: the following is another rambling post of self-analysis. I'll post more pretty climbing pics again soon!<br />
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Middle school is rough on everyone, with bodies and emotions rebelling against us, and the social order we knew in elementary school unexpectedly upended. Suddenly it mattered what we wore, who we talked to, what shows we watched, what games we played, and it seemed an absolute certainty that our entire social future depended on doing what everyone else did. I tried for sure, but I was like the world's worst surfer, catching a wave right as it crashed onto shore and then continuing to stand there in the sand wondering where everyone else had gone. Some of my friends gave up entirely, deciding that the cool crowd was irredeemably stupid and a waste of space, but the less connected I became, the more I wanted to fit in.<br />
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With high school looming, my future changed when a good family friend took me to my first wrestling match. It took me a year to finally suck it up and try out, but it was one of the best things I ever did for myself, especially with a few gifted upperclassmen there to take me under their wings and unlock the athletic potential that I had buried under fifty pounds of excess teenage boy. Suddenly I was doing something that made sense, that I couldn't stop thinking about, couldn't stop mentally refining the motions and the patterns, and more importantly I connected. I finally had something that I could talk about and people wanted to hear. For a while anyway. It turns out that people don't want to hear about wrestling all the time, but I had some really good five minute conversations.<br />
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When I moved on to college, and looked around me at my orientation, I realized that the middle school social order had fallen. In a room full of strangers, I was who I said I was. I was as confident and outgoing as I portrayed myself to be. Was it all an act, a character I was playing, or was it another part of me that was finally allowed to surface? Maybe it was both. As I got the best grades of my life and pushed myself athletically during the day, and my friends threw the best parties on weekends, my nights looked much as they always had... sitting at my desk and looking through yearbooks, field guides, and Nintendo instruction manuals, rolling dice for games I never actually played, just because I liked to see the numbers, and drawing countless pictures just to immediately throw them away, as in their moment of creation they had already served their purpose. The exhilaration of connection and the comfort of isolation, both balanced to create a healthy whole.<br />
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Now my life is so amazing that I can't believe it's real, but I don't think much has actually changed. Climbing has replaced wrestling, both in obsession with refining movement and as a means of connection. Better yet, when I'm out there repping products or organizations, I don't even have to worry about whether people want to hear about what I have to say, because that's why they've come over to my table in the first place. Again, a character I play, or just an aspect of myself that I channel for the situation at hand? Does it even matter? I've also made the best friends of my life, most of whom share that love of climbing, but all of whom have other obsessions of their own, things that the rest of us don't understand but support wholeheartedly because of the joy those pursuits bring to the people we care about. And yes, I still spend a lot of time alone, and love every moment of it. While middle school me never would have admitted to doing math for fun, sitting out on my deck under the trees with an old math book is one of my favorite things. As a slab climber, obviously algebra is my favorite... everything in balance, always balance.<br />
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I'm lucky to have a talented and beautiful wife as a mostly willing copilot in my ongoing voyage of self awareness, and sharing music with each other has been a big part of our relationship. Often we agree, and every once in a while we don't. Sometimes there's a song that one of us just can't stand, and Ruth B's <i>Lost Boy</i> elicits a loathing from her that I've rarely ever seen. The first time we heard it, we actually thought it was a joke, but then it just kept going and we couldn't bring ourselves to turn it off. Now she can't change the station fast enough when it comes on, but I find myself letting it play out when she's not around, not because I like it any better as a song now, but because of what it represents to me.<br />
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Neverland. Where we go to escape, or where we go to find connection? Or both? Balance, always balance. In high school, wrestling was my Neverland. Now it's climbing, and math, and spring flowers, and a run under the trees, and drawing, and watching leaves blow in the autumn wind, and stair sprints with the music pumping. It's where I go to lose myself and find myself. Balance, always balance.<br />
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<i>"Neverland is home to lost boys like me, and lost boys like me are free."</i><br />
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To all my freaks and geeks out there, to all my lost boys and girls, especially those of you still struggling to fit into a system that seems like it wants no part of you... hang in there. Find your Neverland. They say to look for it second to the right, but it's probably been in front you the whole time. Find it. Embrace it, and don't look back. Let it build you, and then use it to build others. You're more powerful than you know.Robinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10587840302002855420noreply@blogger.com0