Saturday, February 5, 2011

Northwest Branch- Pyramid and Anklebiter boulders

The Pyramid Area at Northwest Branch can be a little confusing to navigate, but has a few boulders worth checking out.  After walking down the trail past the Tulip area (see map), you'll see a jumble of boulders between Uphill Slab and the river.  One of the first you'll find, just downhill from the trail and partially hidden by other rocks, is the Pyramid boulder.  While the problems on this are relatively moderate, this is another boulder I probably wouldn't touch without a pad and spotter.

Pyramid boulder (explanation of number symbols here)
1. Sharp Schist Arete (V3):  Climb the left side of the boulder using crimps and the arete.

2.  Sharp Go-Tee (V3):  Start on the arete, but traverse right across crimps to join Upper Pyramid at the jugs.

3.  Pyramid (V3):  Climb the center of the boulder, starting on crimps and moving up through jugs.

4.  Upper Pyramid (V0):  Start on the jugs and top out straight up.

Slightly further downriver is the Anklebiter boulder, which can be seen around the right edge of the Pyramid in the photo above.  The landings are better than on Pyramid, but a pad would still be a good idea.

Anklebiter boulder (explanation of number symbols here)
1.  Anklebiter Left (V6):  Sit-start in the center with the left hand on a sidepull and the right in a constriction.  Move up to the edge of the overhang and traverse left along crimps.  When you reach a flake just right of the tree, top out straight up.

2.  Anklebiter (V1):  Sit-start same as above, move up through the overhang and top out straight up.

3.  Anklebiter Right (V3):  An eliminate, starting the same as Anklebiter, but without using the good sloper and crimp rail past the overhang.  Instead, move slightly right and use a worse sloper and left crimp.


clockworkmechanic said...

there is also:
ankle biter left which goes up the crack to the feature in the face to the left of the original line.
ankle biter further left which turns the corner under the tree and goes up crimps on the left face. This one is really cool and involves kneebars at the base of the boulder.

cadaverchris said...

i like the Ankle Biter far left variation. Using the kneebars and moving under the tree, sounds pretty contrived, but very fun.

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