Friday, June 3, 2011

Another Sugarloaf Video

It's been a long time since I posted, mostly because it's been a long time since I've really gone out and bouldered.  In a bit less than three weeks, I'll be flying out to LA to spend about 11 days climbing several long routes on and around Mount Whitney, and my climbing time has been almost entirely focused on preparing for that.  Not that it's a bad thing, as it's meant several great trips to Seneca, Sugarloaf, and a few other local spots.  And in about 10 minutes I'll be heading down to the New for my first time, which will be interesting since I think I've done a total of four sport leads in my life.

I realized that there was a video from Sugarloaf last month that I hadn't yet posted, mostly because I had big plans of editing several clips together first.  Too lazy to do that right now, so here's the simple version.  It's a video of Vincent Faires on the Humphrys boulder, the same one at Sugarloaf that I previously posted a video from.  Rather than doing Second Hand Smoke, the problem running up the right arete, Vincent decided to start low left and traverse up and right using only the face.  After blowing the cross several times, he finally stuck it only to fall off on the next move.  My biggest regret that day was that I stopped recording right as he was unleashing the resulting monumental shriek.  No name or grade yet for this problem (don't know if it's been done before), but a good one for sure.


Anonymous said...

Hope you are feeling better since that pain in your side on Wednesday, pal!

- The Dan

Anonymous said...

problem's been done. I did it back in 90's, and the holds were chalked as well. don't if it was named. doesn't matter, it's a good problem. nice job.

Robin said...

@ The Dan- Thanks, feeling mostly better, but still a bit cautious when locking off on that side. Should be good to go soon!

@ Anonymous- Cool to hear you did the problem a while back. It really is a fun one! Got on it a couple hours ago actually. So, I was just asking Vincent if he wanted to think of a name for it since we didn't know of any ascents before his. But since he hates coming up with names, and you got to it way before us, I'd be open to any names you would like to suggest. Not trying to be the official naming committee or anything, but as long as I'm posting about this boulder it's a lot more interesting (and less unwieldy) to have a name rather than something like "Problem #3." And if you know of any other good Sugarloaf problems I'd love to hear from someone who's been around a while. I've mainly been going there for trad, but have loved what I've seen of the boulders so far.

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