Showing posts with label Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Climbing. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

A day at Harpers Ferry Part I: Fear of ropes


On Friday morning I finally made it out to climb at Harpers Ferry, a beautiful area overlooking the river where Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia come together.  Long known for its moderate multi-pitch trad routes, as well as Maryland's only grade IV aid route, a few local climbers have recently braved the chossy reputation to establish several harder lines.  After months of following Dan's progress in establishing some of these routes, as well as lending my gargantuan #6 Camalot to the cause, I finally had an opportunity to see the area with him firsthand.


After pointing out the various routes to me, Dan led the way to his latest project, the base of which sits at the top of Whirlwind.  At somewhere around 75 feet, with a reasonable crux in the 5.10- range, this approach should have been no problem.  It was, however, the first time since November that I've been on a rope outside.  I don't know what it is about the presence of a rope that instantly triggers anxiety, but for some reason my first roped experience of the year is embarrassing to say the least.  I suppose I could write it off as a normal case of first-time jitters, that is if jitters can be said to involve clinging desperately to draws and making upward progress of roughly ten feet per minute, and on at least three occasions hanging from the bolt anchor above.  I could even make the excuse that I'm still recovering from injury, and had only the day before attempted any routes in the 5.10 range in the gym.  In truth, I know the recovery process had nothing to do with it, and I would have found myself just as nervous were I on 5.4 terrain.  My flailing was all the more embarrassing in light of the fact that for Dan, this was only the warmup for the imposing multi-tiered roofs waiting above.




I suppose the good news is that, while I'm always scared the first time I rope up each year, the second time is always business as usual.  In addition, I noticed that the usual anxiety I feel on my first multi-pitch belay was absent this time, as was any nervousness I usually feel on my first rappel.  I wish I knew how to get rid of the fears altogether, but small victories are still victories, and I'll settle for two out of the three.  I'll even take the bonus points for being willing to put my camera lens two inches below the black widow I saw later in the day.


Still, maybe some amount of nervousness is a good thing, if it keeps me aware of what I'm doing.  As my good friend Timm once said about racing, though I find it equally applicable to climbing:
I always associated nervous with prepared. My thinking goes, if you are nervous then you understand what is out in front of you. The flip side being of course that if you aren’t nervous you don’t understand the gravity of the situation. It’s when I’m not nervious that I worry.
 Stay tuned for more photos and video of the day in "A day at Harpers Ferry Part II:  Bouldering tour."

Friday, May 25, 2012

Vicarious Levitation

With my assorted strains and pulls finally starting to disappear during this third week of not climbing,  I find myself cautiously optimistic that I'll be back on the rocks soon.  In the meantime, I've been happy to hear from a few strong locals who have descended on Sykesville's Levitation Area, sending projects and repeating high quality lines such as Sparkly Spots.  We've been fortunate to have a few great videos come out of these visits, which combined with the videos of Mulligan Flash really demonstrate what a high quality little area this is.


For a little highball action, here's one from Brian Spiering showing two lines to the right of Mulligan Flash.



Then for a complete change of pace, check out this crazy little dyno Brian put up on a blank section the Upper Levitation boulder.



We also have video of two interpretations of the left arete of the Jam Boulder, marked in the mini-guide as the "Fat Man Project."  Brian's version moves straight up off the pinch...



While Justin Smith follows the arete out right to top out above the "Ro-Fo Project."



As stated in this post, the administrator of mdguides is planning to update the Levitation guide, and would like to hear from anyone who has visited the area and has input on grades or new lines that have been done.  Information may be left in comments directly on the post.

Looks like a nice weekend coming up.  Hope everyone gets a chance to go out and play!

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Rockfest 2012

On Saturday the Mid-Atlantic Climbers hosted their annual Rockfest event, moving it from its previous location in Shenandoah to Rocks State Park in Maryland.  Unfortunately, what didn't change was the traditional forecast for bad weather!  Still, despite a likelihood of daytime thunderstorms and a certain downpour overnight, an incredible 68 volunteers turned up for a day of trail maintenance and other much needed work.

                                                                                    Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
Starting around 10 in the morning, volunteers took on a variety of projects, including trash removal around the climbing areas and on some of the trails.

                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                    Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
They also worked to remove some of the invasive plant species in the area, taking care to avoid the plentiful poison ivy.

                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
Around noon, everyone stopped for a delicious cookout provided by Earth Treks.

                                                                                      Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
Refueled for the next few hours, some of the volunteers did an incredible bit of work on a section of split trail, improving one side and erasing all evidence of the other.

                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                    Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
Others helped to build a natural play area, which included rocks, stumps, hollowed out logs, and a "bird's nest" made from vines woven through wooden posts.

                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
By the end of the afternoon, everyone was satisfied with their work and happy the weather had cooperated, even if a bit of rain would have made them look less like coal miners...

                                                                                     Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
Returning to the pavilion, the volunteers were treated to a filling burrito dinner, courtesy of the Solid Rock Climbers For Christ.  There was also a tray of delicious brownies and cookies that were theoretically dessert, even though mine only made it about five steps!

                                                                                    Photo: Mark 'Indy' Kochte
As volunteers soothed hungry stomachs, items were raffled off from sponsors such as Friksn, Earth Treks, Osprey, and the Access Fund.  Even with 68 volunteers, everyone walked away with something, and it looked like there were even extras leftover.

A few people decided to slackline after dinner, and others went out to climb, knowing the weather would be no good the next day.  Eventually the rain started to come down though, and its intensity more than made up for the good weather we had experienced earlier.  Those few who were planning to stay overnight started to set up their tents, while others ran for the cover of the pavilion.

We hung out by the fire as darkness started to fall, then finished off the evening with a selection of outdoor films, all of them made by or featuring local climbers.  Among those shown were Zanskar Odyssey and Count to Six and Die from Jason Kehl, Climb Through It from Shawn Seifert, and Playgrounds Re-Imagined from Seth Warren.  Admittedly a bit heavy on the bouldering side of things, but a great evening of entertainment nonetheless.  A huge thanks to Jason, Shawn, and Seth for sharing their work with us!

After the films I decided to head home, but a few brave individuals stayed around and camped through the rain, waking to a final breakfast together before heading their separate ways.  Weather aside, it was an awesome event, and I'm looking forward to joining the Mid-Atlantic Climbers for their next one.  Thanks to everyone who put in so much hard work!  Also, a special thanks to Mark 'Indy' Kochte for running all around to document the day's happenings, and for the use of his photos here.  It's good to have our own paparazzi!


Monday, March 26, 2012

Rockfest 2012- Rocks State Park


In a little less than a month, the Mid-Atlantic Climbers will be hosting their annual Rockfest event, scheduled for Saturday April 21st at Rocks State Park.  What is Rockfest?  It's similar to the other Adopt-A-Crag style events hosted by the MAC, with plans for trailwork and other area improvements, but with one major difference.  Rather than the usual morning of work followed by afternoon of climbing, Rockfest is a two-day event, with nearby camping for volunteers who want to hang around for some Sunday fun on the rocks.  Volunteers will also be provided with lunch and dinner Saturday, and breakfast Sunday.  And if three free meals aren't enough, there's always the chance to score some sweet new gear in the post-dinner raffle, all before settling down for an evening of movie entertainment.  Okay, so maybe there are a few differences!

Rockfest will be held rain or shine, and camping is limited to 75 volunteers, so register early to reserve your space.  Be sure to dress for the weather, including sturdy shoes for work on or off the trails.  Gloves and all tools will be provided.

Hope to see you out there!

Saturday, October 29, 2011

Sugarloaf Pillar Project

It's good to have a project.  A climb so intriguing that you can't help but obsess, finding yourself sequencing every move over and over, seeking the perfection of motion that will bring you to the top.  A climb that even weaves through your dreams, letting you flow weightlessly upward to a joyful topout, waking to realize it hadn't happened, and smiling because you know it will.

For the past few weeks, my obsession has been a toprope route out at Sugarloaf.  Known as the Pillar Project, it's a beautiful series of slightly overhung quartzite crimps, leading up through a final undercling to mantle onto a gentle slab.  It's not a tall climb... in fact were it not for the stone staircase directly underneath, it might be no more than a tall boulder problem.  Could it be led?  Well, there's a perfect horizontal cam placement (maybe .4 BD) just before the mantle finish.  Above the stone stairs.  And the tree.

                                                                                        Photo: Daniel Montague

Due to the potential for swinging over the stairs, thereby endangering any hikers passing up or down, it seemed best to limit this climb to weekdays when traffic would be low.  And weather being what it has been, finding free weekday afternoons with dry rock was a bit of a challenge.  With Sugarloaf being an hour drive from work, and daylight growing ever shorter, I knew there wouldn't be many opportunities.

Eventually though, Vincent Faires and I managed to make it out a few weeks ago, and made our first few hilarious attempts.  We only made it a few moves in, and our initial anchor location left us glancing off the tree after every fall before swinging out over the stairs, pulling up our legs to avoid belayer and railing, and desperately trying to spin back around in time to fend off the tree and rock as they rushed back toward us.

                                                       Photo: Daniel Montague

The second day, anchor repositioned to replace the swing with a much safer drop onto the base of the tree, we sent Daniel Montague up on a recon mission for us.  Half an hour and several falls later, Dan had unlocked all the moves.  Psyched to know it was possible, I tied in and had soon reached the top with falls in only three places.  Unfortunately daylight had faded too much to allow Vince to follow suit, but we had no doubt he would crush it on the next visit.






And he did.  Last Friday, with grey skies and finger-numbing rock, Dan warmed up with a quick solo up Darkness Imprisoning Me and then immediately tied in to dispatch the project.  Then, after an initial attempt ending two moves from the mantle, Vince realized that shirt drag had been holding him back, and soon found himself at the top as well.  I took four shots at it, running laps up and down the stairs between climbs to stay warm, but in the end had to content myself with falling two moves short of the top.

                                                        Photo: Daniel Montague
                                                      Photo: Daniel Montague
                                                      Photo: Daniel Montague
After another week of obsessively sequencing, I finally got back out yesterday, my mom having graciously volunteered to belay.  And lest anyone feel sorry for the poor woman standing in the cold belaying her son, I'll point out that she did tie in once, and made it as far as Vince and I had on our first attempts.  So, after a quick warm up of stair running and Dunkin Donuts blueberry coffee, I hopped on and blew the topout.  Second try, sent.

I have to say, as good as it feels to finish a project, it's never quite as fun as the process of figuring it out.  In the end, that's the point of climbing, right?  On the other hand, I know this is a climb I'll enjoy coming back to many times, now free to of any "can I do it" pressure.  And, there's still another way up this face...

For now, here's a video of Dan's ascent.  Hoping eventually to edit it together with the footage I got on a second camera, maybe even some music if I'm feeling extra ambitious.  But at this point, nothing fancy, just climbing.


Thursday, August 11, 2011

Colorado Roadtrip 2011

A couple weeks ago, having finally made the adjustment back to East Coast time, I hopped in my car and pointed it west.  My eventual destination was Colorado, though if destination were the only concern I'd have simply flown there and saved myself two long days of driving, running on bad gas station coffee and inane talk radio.  And to a certain extent, I'd have been missing the point.

Let me rewind a few years and say that I often didn't understand my dad while he was alive.  Once described as the King of the Road Trip and Sovereign Presider over the backcountry roads of America, at the time I could never really figure out why he preferred to spend the majority of his vacation time driving... why he drove at least three times to visit my siblings in Colorado, but only stayed there long enough for a single meal before turning around and spending the next week driving home.  Almost every day he would send long winding emails about his travels, several of which I'm sad to say I never even read until years later.  But as with many things, late is better than never.  Reading through them now, there's one passage that strikes me in particular...


For some reason, as I was driving today, I started thinking about how beautiful everything was, and how we often do not take time to look at things. In general, while I am taking a long drive like my drives to/from Colorado, I leave the sound system (radio, tape, CD) turned off most of the time and attempt to feel and enjoy the sounds of the air flowing over the car, and the beauty of the grass and other plants, and the clouds. The most spectacular clouds I have seen have been while driving in Iowa. You never know when you will never have another chance to hear the wind sounds, or enjoy the shapes of the clouds in the sky.


And so I drove, albeit on an interstate rather than the small country roads... and eating fast food, but only from places we don't have at home.  



Friday, July 22, 2011

Cali 2011 part 2- Escape from Yosemite

A wise man once said "Sometimes success is just making it back home.  Perceived failures are often the greatest adventures."

The morning of July 2nd started out with great promise, as we woke up in Camp 4 with the plan of extending our stay another night, and spending another day in the Valley before heading back to Santa Barbara.

Strike one.  We got up too late, and soon found ourselves displaced by the family of roughly 50 people who were now moving into our site.

No matter.  We had heard of a campground outside the park boundary that would have some sites available.  Even better, by staying there we would be able to use the pool and hot tub at the neighboring hotel.  Suddenly the day didn't seem so bad!  Throwing our things in the car, we left the Valley in search of our temporary residence.

Strike two.  Arriving at the campground only to be greeted by a "no vacancy" sign.  Okay then, new plan.  We decided to grab some lunch at the nearby grill, then head back and climb for the day before making a late drive back to Santa Barbara.

Four lackluster patty melts later, we were on our way back into the Valley, planning to head over to Serenity Crack so Luke could get some good photos of Dan leading the 3rd pitch.  Then we hit the traffic jam...


Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Cali 2011 part 1- A week in the Valley

Back in January, long before Maryland was experiencing its current heat wave, my friend Luke Anderson asked me if I wanted to fly out to California this summer and climb this...

Photo borrowed from Wikipedia

Five months of training later, the snow on Mount Whitney was showing little sign of breaking, and we began to reevaluate our plan.  While the routes themselves would have been clear, the approaches and descents were far snowier than we felt like dealing with, and we regretfully decided to go with our backup plan instead.  Ok, not so regretfully, since that meant we were now going here...


Saturday, April 23, 2011

Bushwhack 4/17/11

Last Sunday my mom and I headed out to Bushwhack, and had the pleasure of bringing along our own personal paparazzi, the talented Nate Hathaway.  Although I carried in a full trad rack, a 60 meter rope, 75 feet of static line, 60 feet of webbing, and a crashpad, I'm fairly certain that Nate's backpack full of camera equipment actually weighed more.  In appreciation of the hard work he put into hauling his setup, shooting while suspended from various surfaces, and I'm sure staying up all night to edit the footage, I'll strictly be using Nate's photos for this post.

The day started out as most do there, just walking around...


Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Bushwhack and Sugarloaf videos

It's been a busy couple weeks, but with spring break here and a bit of rain keeping me indoors, I figured it was a great time for an update.  The last couple weeks have been mainly geared toward routes, with a few trips to Ilchester, a couple to Bushwhack and Woodstock, and Sugarloaf yesterday.  The last two Bushwhack visits have been particularly fun, with two newly cleaned areas providing several new routes, and two fun variations of Tourette's Razor sent.  Will post in more detail once I have the photos together, but for now here's a video of me on Tourette's Tantrum, a more dynamic but also more finger-friendly left variation established by Vincent Faires.

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Northwest Branch- The Cracks

On the south side of the river at Northwest Branch, roughly opposite the Chaos Roof area, is a cluster of boulders that gets a bit less attention than the main boulders on the north side.  One of these, known as The Cracks (not to be confused with Crack Line), is tall enough to blur the distinction between highball bouldering and free-soloing.  With rocks at the base and the large pipeline just past those, and a few holds that may not be as solid as you would like, a rope would be well-advised here.  Even if you're going to boulder it, rapping down with a brush wouldn't be a horrible idea.  I went out a few days ago, and was completely covered in dirt, moss, and lichen by the time I finished scrubbing the holds.

To get there, walk back to Route 29 from the parking lot, cross the river via the sidewalk, and hop over the guard rail to access the dirt trail.  Walk a few minutes downriver on the dirt trail until you see a large boulder by the exposed pipeline.  Here's what you're looking for:



The "established" routes on this are basically the cracks.  The lefthand route is pretty obvious, but the righthand one is a little harder to locate.

1.  Dirty Crack (5.7):  Climb roughly along the lefthand crack.  If you happen to use holds in the cracks to the right, whatever.  Done as a bouldering problem, this has been listed as Crack Solo (V1).

2.  All My Heroes Are Heroin Junkies (5.10a):  Haven't done this one yet, but I think it follows the thin crack that starts a few feet right of Dirty Crack, rather than the one that branches directly off it.  There are a few crack lines here, so find something that looks 5.10a.  Or just climb whatever looks good at the time.

There's also supposedly a 5.10d crack on the right side, but I have a feeling this is the same as the 5.10a crack with a different opinion of the rating.  Anyone know?

Arm deep in Dirty Crack.  Still frame from video by Mark 'Indy' Kochte

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Roping up at Bushwhack

So here's where some people are going to say, "I thought this was a bouldering blog."  Yes, it is, but I mentioned when I started out (see Q&A) that I'd be posting about other things from time to time.  And with a big trad-climbing trip coming up this summer, I'll be spending a much larger percentage of time roped up in the next few months.  But don't worry, I'll make sure plenty of bouldering finds it way on here as well.  It's just hard to focus entirely on bouldering when places I visit have stuff like this:

Spellbound

Saturday, December 25, 2010

2010 Wrap-up

While 2010 and I admittedly got off on the wrong foot, it's developed into a pretty amazing year overall, especially from a travel standpoint.  In the spring I spent a great weekend in Montreal for a friend's bachelor party, as well as a week out west visiting my brother with my mom and my wife, Emily.  We flew into Vegas, showed my mom as much of the strip as we could in a few hours, caught a few hours of sleep, spent a few hours bouldering at Red Rocks, then headed west to my brother's army base in the Mojave.  While it was too windy to climb during the beginning of the week, it did clear up for a couple days of bouldering and a day of trad/toproping before we left.  Most of the rock was some semi-crumbling volcanic scuff, by no means a destination, but there was a great peacefulness in knowing that it had probably never been climbed and might never be again.  Our own boulders for one perfect day, with nothing but memories and a few pictures to show that we had ever been there.

Me bouldering near Barstow, CA

Mom (Pennie Close) at Red Rocks
Emily's Red Rocks victory stance










One advantage to being a teacher is having the summers off.  While I usually choose to work summer school, I decided to take off this year for a trip to Africa that didn't end up working out.  Instead, I found myself taking a road trip out to Colorado to visit my sister Sara, and spend some time hiking and climbing around Rocky Mountain National Park with her and my mom.  Although much of our climbing days was simply stopping to play on trailside boulders that we encountered while hiking, we did get in a few bouldering sessions at Flagstaff, and visits to two bolted areas in or near the park.  Jurrasic Park, on Lily Mountain, was absolutely beautiful.  One of the most striking lines there was an amazing arete called Edge of Time.  Wow.

Mom (Pennie Close) near Lake Haiyaha

Mom, Sara, and me on top of Meadow Mountain
 
Sara in Jurassic Park
Me on Edge of Time
 
Orchid on the trail up to Lawn Lake
 
After coming back east for a friend's wedding, I had a few days at home before Emily and I hopped on a plane to Amsterdam.  It was my first time in Europe, not including our honeymoon in Ireland, and was an incredible trip.  We spent about a week and a half visiting assorted friends in the Netherlands and Belgium before catching a ride to France for two days in Paris and two in Fontainebleau.  Every country was a great experience, with friendly people, good food, good beer, and a sense of oldness that I've never really felt in the States.  I was especially surprised how comfortable I was in France, with all the stories I've heard about Americans not being well received.  Everywhere we went though, people were interested in starting conversation with us as travelers, and always helpful in getting us where we needed to be.  And although I usually don't like cities, standing on the hill outside Sacre Coeur it was impossible not to be impressed as couldn't see where the city stopped in any direction.  I will, however, advise travelers to Paris to not order the andouillette.  Pretty much a sausage made from chitlins and thrown on the grill, and the only time in my life that I can remember being unable to make myself finish unpleasant tasting food in a restaurant.  Four bites and I gave up, then happily helped Emily eat her raw beef.  DON'T get the andouillette!

Fontainebleau was also a destination that I would recommend to any traveler, whether or not they have any interest in climbing.  The town itself was pleasant, with our bed and breakfast located above a pedestrian street full of good restaurants.  A few hundred meters away was the Chateau de Fontainebleau, an old palace that was well worth the three or more hours we spent touring it.  And the forest itself...well, I don't think I can really do it justice.  Thousands of boulders scattered through a forest of evergreen and aspen-like trees, with a sandy ground that made me feel like the beach had suddenly landed in the middle of a Colorado forest.  And as for the climbing, it was the first time I could say for sure that a place was my favorite climbing area.  Not my favorite bouldering area, or toprope area, or sport or trad area, but the place I would choose without question if I could only climb in one area for the rest of my life.  And it would take a lifetime to climb everything there.

Amsterdam

Amsterdam from the canals
Belgian rooftops
Belgium, not Disney World

Obligatory Eiffel Tower shot
Me at Fontainebleau
Emily at Fontainebleau
Emily at Fontainebleau
Emily at Fontainebleau
Having managed to avoid the oppressive summer heat of home, I finished out the year with several great trips to Coopers Rock in WV, lots of bouldering down the road at Northwest Branch, my first real visit to Arizona, and Thanksgiving out in Vegas and California.  As I type, my little sis is in London on her way to South Africa, and from there sailing across the Atlantic with 5 Gyres.  Tomorrow, weather allowing, Emily and her mom and I are off to close out 2010 with a week in Arizona.   Life is pretty good.

Merry Christmas!