Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Northwest Branch- Chaos Roof

One of the most impressive, and intimidating, areas at  Northwest Branch is Chaos Roof.  To reach this area, walk down the trail past Tulip, Uphill Slab, and Crack Line boulders, and the Chaos Roof boulder will be on your right shortly afterward on your right (map).  You can't miss the big roof jutting out toward the river.  While I feel comfortable bouldering in many areas of NWB with one pad and no spotters, this is NOT one of them!!!  Bring your friends, pad it up, and enjoy.

Still waiting for the snow to clear long enough to get decent photos of this area, so I've used an older one for now.

Chaos Roof (explanation of number symbols here)
1.  Chaos Roof (V9):  Starting on a pinch under the overhang, work out the left arete using crimps and heel hooks until making a big move to the starting jug of The Edge of Chaos.  Finish straight up using the arete.

1a.  Full Chaos Roof (V9/10):  Starts two moves further into the roof.

2.  Ultimate Doom (V10):  Starts same as Chaos Roof, but moves right under the overhang to the start holds of Doom, and finishes up the jugs on the lip.

2a.  Ultimate Direct (V11):  Same as Ultimate Doom, but after reaching the start holds of Doom, finish straight up and right without using the juggy flake.

2b.  Ultimately Doomed Snowflakes (project): Follow Ultimate Direct to the face, then traverse right to finish on Snowflake.

3.  The Edge of Chaos (V3):  Jump to the jug and finish straight up using the arete.  If you can't jump, there's no shame in stacking pads to reach the start!


clockworkmechanic said...

you may want to put doom on this picture as well since its in the photo and its mentioned in the route description for ultimate doom.

Robin said...

Yeah, that's a good idea. I think I actually took another picture of Chaos Roof from the other side, specifically for showing the Doom variations. I'll try to add that to this post in the next couple days. For now, clicking on "Doom" sends you to the Downstream Slab post where that problem is discussed in more detail. Thanks for the thoughts!

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