After warming up, I made several unsuccessful attempts to climb Tauntaun Sleeping Bag (check out Brian's video here). Starting on a left crimp, right sidepull, and imaginary feet, the crux of the problem is the first move to the slopers on the rail, followed by a balancy move into crimps and a fun mantle into the slab topout. For those unable to stick the first move, I'd definitely recommend at least doing Tauntaun, which starts standing established on the slopers.
Photo: Brian Spiering |
Photo: Brian Spiering |
Photo: Brian Spiering |
Working from a crouching start on a left undercling and right sidepull, we gradually unlocked a workable sequence.
Photo: Brian Spiering |
As we worked, we were treated to the comedic stylings of Todd Hill, who had arrived to continue his ongoing mapping mission. Just as amusing was the very opposite set of issues that Brian and I were having... his difficulty holding the double heel hooks down low contrasted to my inability to control the huge jugs up high. Finally after several near sends by both of us, Brian announced that he was going to "thug it up" and completely changed his beta, resulting in a display so hilarious that I forgot to keep the camera moving upward as I filmed him. Still thinking that feet should be involved, I persisted with the double heels and made a painfully slow topout out after two more attempts. Always funny to see how differently people can approach the same problem, but this is one of my new Bushwhack favorites for sure.
Thanks to Brian and Todd for such a fun day!
1 comment:
How about "Westermarck Effect" for the name of the problem in the talus?
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