To get there, walk back to Route 29 from the parking lot, cross the river via the sidewalk, and hop over the guard rail to access the dirt trail. Walk a few minutes downriver on the dirt trail until you see a large boulder by the exposed pipeline. Here's what you're looking for:
The "established" routes on this are basically the cracks. The lefthand route is pretty obvious, but the righthand one is a little harder to locate.
1. Dirty Crack (5.7): Climb roughly along the lefthand crack. If you happen to use holds in the cracks to the right, whatever. Done as a bouldering problem, this has been listed as Crack Solo (V1).
2. All My Heroes Are Heroin Junkies (5.10a): Haven't done this one yet, but I think it follows the thin crack that starts a few feet right of Dirty Crack, rather than the one that branches directly off it. There are a few crack lines here, so find something that looks 5.10a. Or just climb whatever looks good at the time.
There's also supposedly a 5.10d crack on the right side, but I have a feeling this is the same as the 5.10a crack with a different opinion of the rating. Anyone know?
2. All My Heroes Are Heroin Junkies (5.10a): Haven't done this one yet, but I think it follows the thin crack that starts a few feet right of Dirty Crack, rather than the one that branches directly off it. There are a few crack lines here, so find something that looks 5.10a. Or just climb whatever looks good at the time.
There's also supposedly a 5.10d crack on the right side, but I have a feeling this is the same as the 5.10a crack with a different opinion of the rating. Anyone know?
Arm deep in Dirty Crack. Still frame from video by Mark 'Indy' Kochte |
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